Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [177]
Father John then painted the walls with a series of biblical scenes (now deteriorated) to aid in teaching the Bible. On columns topped with palm fronds are sayings in Hawaiian (with the admonishment ‘Begone Satan!’ among others).
PALEAKU GARDENS PEACE SANCTUARY
Near the church on Painted Church Rd, these tranquil seven-acre gardens (328-8084; www.paleaku.com; 83-5401 Painted Church Rd; admission $5; 9am-4pm Tue-Thu) contain shrines to the world’S religions and an intriguing ‘Galaxy Garden,’ in which famous space painter Jon Lomberg has created a scale model of the Milky Way – in plants. It’S indeed a meditative, peaceful sanctuary.
Courses
SKEA (Society for Kona’S Education & Art; 328-9392; www.skea.org; 84-5191 Mamalahoa Hwy) is a hotbed of activity, with Pilates, Polynesian dance and Japanese ink-painting classes, plus pidgin poetry readings and concerts on the lawn. Check the calendar, and look for it between the 105- and 106-mile markers.
Sleeping
Hale Ho′ola B&B (328-9117, 877-628-9117; www.hale-hoola.com; 85-4577 Mamalahoa Hwy; r incl breakfast $110-150; ) This friendly B&B makes for a homey, relaxed stay, with three small but comfortable rooms downstairs from the main house. Rooms have nice beds and lanais, but are positioned close together – though this makes for a more social atmosphere, particularly when everyone gathers for the generous breakfast.
Aloha Guest House (328-8955, 800-897-3188; www.alohaguesthouse.com; 84-4780 Mamalahoa Hwy; r incl breakfast $140-280; ) Lose yourself, quite literally, in South Kona’S lush upper slopes at this egregiously stylish five-room B&B. The commanding coastal views are unforgettable, whether from the cozy upstairs lanai or, in the upstairs rooms, while snuggled beneath your bed’S gorgeous quilts. A relaxed elegance graces everything, from the open glass-block showers to the sage-and-copper hues to the gourmet breakfasts. Downstairs rooms (no view) are a bargain. Plus, there’S an outdoor Jacuzzi, and your sophisticated, eco-conscious hosts know the Big Island intimately. Ask for directions; it’S mauka 1 mile along local roads from Hwy 11.
Eating
South Kona Fruit Stand (328-8547; 84-4770 Hwy 11; smoothies $5.25-6.25, sandwiches $7-8.50 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, café 10am-4pm) This chichi organic fruit-and-vegetable stand sells only the cream of the crop. The café whips up heavenly fruit smoothies and good sandwiches; there are nice views from the outdoor patio. The stand is between the 103- and 104-mile markers.
Bong Brothers (328-9289; www.bongbrothers.com; Hwy 11; deli items $3-5; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5:30pm Sun) Food is politics at Bong Brothers, a small organic health food store and vegetarian takeout deli in an historic 1929 building. The fresh-made curries, soups and salads are mouthwateringly delicious, even when served with ornery aloha by unrepentant agricultural activists. Bong Brothers has cool gift items, too.
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PU′UHONUA O HONAUNAU NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK
This impressive national park (328-2288, 328-2326; www.nps.gov/puho; 1-week pass adult/car $3/5; 7am-8pm, visitor center 8am-5:30pm) fronting Honaunau Bay provides one of the state’S most evocative experiences of ancient Hawaii. The park’S tongue-twister name simply means ‘place of refuge at Honaunau.’ In 2008, the park acquired 238 more acres, doubling its size; expect changes and new trails in the near future.
History
In ancient Hawai′i, the kapu system (strict ancient Hawaiian social and religious system) regulated daily life. A common person could not look at the ali′i (chief) or walk in his footsteps. Women could not prepare food for men or eat with them. One could not fish, hunt or gather timber except