Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [178]
If one broke the kapu, the penalty was death, and kapu violators were hunted down and killed. This was done to appease the gods, who otherwise would become angry and possibly visit destruction upon the entire community – with famine, tidal waves or volcanic eruptions.
However there was one escape. Commoners who broke a kapu could get a second chance if they reached the sacred ground of a pu′uhonua. A pu′uhonua also gave sanctuary to defeated warriors, deserters and other men unable to fight (being, perhaps, too old or too young) during times of war.
To reach the pu′uhonua was a challenge. Since the grounds immediately surrounding the refuge were royal and therefore couldn’t be crossed, kapu breakers had to swim through open ocean, braving sharks and currents, to reach safety. Once inside the sanctuary, priests performed ceremonies of absolution to placate the gods. Kapu breakers could then return home for a fresh start. The pu′uhonua at Honaunau was used for several centuries before being abandoned around 1819.
Sights
A half-mile walking tour encompasses the park’S major sites – the visitor center hands out a brochure map with cultural information. Avoid midday, as the park gets hot and is only partially shaded. While most of the sandy trail is accessible by wheelchair, sites near the water require traversing rough lava rock.
You enter the national park in the villagelike royal grounds, where Kona ali′i (chiefs) and their warriors lived; this area’S quiet spiritual atmosphere is greatly enhanced by the gently breaking waves and wind-rustled palms. Hale o Keawe Heiau, the temple on the point of the cove, was built around 1650 and contains the bones of 23 chiefs. It was believed that the mana (spiritual essence) of the chiefs remained in their bones and bestowed sanctity on those who entered the grounds. A fishpond, lava tree molds, a hand-carved koa canoe, and a few thatched huts and shelters are scattered through here. The royal canoe landing, a tongue of sand called Keone′ele Cove, is a favorite resting spot for sea turtles.
Carved wooden ki′i (deity images) standing up to 15ft high front an authentic-looking heiau reconstruction. Leading up to the heiau is the Great Wall separating the royal grounds from the pu′uhonua. Built around 1550, this stone wall is more than 1000ft long and 10ft high. Inside the wall are two older heiau platforms and legendary standing stones.
Just south of the park’S central village area, an oceanfront palm tree grove holds one of South Kona’S choicest picnic areas. Parking, picnic tables and BBQs face a wide slab of pahoehoe (smooth-flowing) lava, which is pockmarked with busy tide pools and littered with wave-tumbled lava rock boulders. Swimming is possible but can be dicey; judge the surf and entry for yourself.
Activities
Beyond the main village site, the park has one hiking trail and one of the island’S best snorkeling spots. The park also holds traditional hula and chanting classes on Friday, usually between 4pm and 8pm; these are taught by the highly respected hula kumu Keala Ching, who is very welcoming of beginners. Respectful observers are also permitted.
SWIMMING & SNORKELING
Immediately north of the park is Two-Step, a stellar snorkeling spot that is also popular with divers and kayakers. Leave your car in the park’S lot, and hang a left outside the entrance.
There’S no beach – snorkelers step off a lava ledge beside the boat ramp into about 10ft of water, which quickly drops to about 25ft. Some naturally formed steps (hence the spot’S name) make it fairly easy to get in and out of the water.
Visibility is usually excellent, especially with the noon sun overhead; good-sized reef fish and a fine variety of corals are close to shore. When the tide is rising, the water is deeper and it brings in more fish. The predatory ‘crown of thorns’ starfish can be seen here feasting on live coral polyps. Cool, freshwater springs seep out of the ground, creating blurry patches in the water. Divers can investigate a ledge a little way out that drops off about