Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [180]
The turnoff is just south of the 89-mile marker.
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NORTH KONA COAST
As your plane lands on a cleared patch of runway in a barren landscape scoured by tongues of black lava, it’S clear that Mt Hualalai rules the North Kona Coast. This arid, gently sloping terrain is so forbidding that modernity has made little headway domesticating it. A few resorts have bulldozed their way to the water’S edge – where the sharp contrast of turquoise water, white sand, swaying palms and black rock make a paradisical scene. The only other thing catching your eye along the highway is the endless coral rock graffiti, shouted messages edging an existential landscape.
Were it not for those gorgeous beaches and those upscale resorts, North Kona would be a place to drive through without pausing, except for snapshots. For the best photo-ops take the upland Mamalaho Hwy (Hwy 190).
Also, according to scientists, the still-active Mt Hualalai isn’t finished. On average the volcano erupts every 200 years, and the last eruption was in 1801 – the same flow, in fact, where the Kona airport now sits.
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HONOKOHAU HARBOR
This small-boat harbor, Kona’S largest, was built in 1970 to alleviate traffic off Kailua Pier. It is the main launching point for fishing charters, but other tours leave from here as well. To reach the harbor, from Hwy 19, turn makai on Kealakehe Parkway just north of the 98-mile marker.
Sights & Activities
To witness the sometimes dramatic weigh-ins from charter fishing boats, head to the far side of the harbor, near the gas station; the weigh-in station is behind the deli. Charters typically arrive around 3:30pm, sometimes at 11am too, but call the Charter Desk first (329-5735); they’ll know if any boats will be coming in. Boats fly flags to signal their catch: blue is marlin, white is ahi, and red is shark.
For information about snorkeling and diving tours and fishing charters departing from this harbor, Click here.
SNORKELING & DIVING
The area south of Honokohau Harbor all the way to Kailua Bay is a marine-life conservation district (accessible by boat); diving here is better than snorkeling, though also see the Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park (opposite).
Straight out from Honokohau Harbor, Turtle Pinnacle is a premier dive site for spotting turtles, which congregate here to let small fish feed off the algae and parasites on their shells.
Off Kaiwi Pt, south of Honokohau Harbor, sea turtles, large fish and huge eagle rays swim around some respectable drop-offs. Nearby is Suck ‘Em Up, a couple of lava tubes. The swell pulls divers through like an amusement-park ride.
Eating
Harbor House Restaurant (326-4166; harbor complex; mains $7-18; 11am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun) After fishing, the place to spin your tale is at a wharfside table here. Order a happy hour schooner (18oz beer for $2.50; 4pm to 6pm Monday to Saturday, to 5:15pm Sunday), a burger or the excellent fish and chips, and start exaggerating. Service is good.
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TOP PICKS – BEST BEACHES
Hapuna Beach (Click here)
Kauna′oa Bay (Click here)
Beach 69 (Click here)
Waipi′o Valley (Click here)
Manini′owali Beach (Click here)
Makalawena Beach (Click here)
Green Sands Beach (Click here)
Kukio Bay Beaches (Click here)
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Shopping
Kailua Candy Company (329-2522, 800-622-2462; www.kailua-candy.com; cnr Kamanu & Kauhola Sts, Kaloko Industrial Park; 8am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun) Detour to this chocolate shop before boarding your flight home. Its celebrated chocolate-covered macadamia-nut honu (‘turtles’) are seriously yum, as are the Kona coffee swirls and truffles. They give good samples. Turn mauka on Hina Lani St off Hwy 19 and right on Kamanu St.
Hawaii Forest & Trail (331-8505,