Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [181]
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KALOKO-HONOKOHAU NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK
Just north of Honokohau Harbor, this 1160-acre national park (329-6881; www.nps.gov/kaho; visitor center 8:30am-4pm, park 24hr) is probably the island’S most under-appreciated ancient Hawaiian site. The main draws are two ancient fishponds and a honu- (green sea turtle) friendly beach, but it also preserves ancient heiau and house sites, burial caves, petroglyphs, holua, and a restored 1-mile segment of the ancient King’S Trail footpath. It’S speculated that the bones of Kamehameha the Great were secretly buried near Kaloko.
The park takes its name from the two ahupua′a (ancient land divisions) it occupies. These comprise a seemingly desolate expanse of black lava, perhaps explaining the lack of visitation. But no worries. If the relatively short, hot trails through this otherworldly wasteland don’t appeal (we actually like them), you can drive and see the highlights with hardly any hiking at all.
At the park’S northern end is Kaloko Fishpond; it’S the most interesting because its massive rock retaining wall is being completely rebuilt, so that the fishpond can once again be worked in the traditional way. It’S wide enough to walk on, and provides gorgeous views. From the park’S visitor center, drive north on Hwy 19 till you reach a separate gated entrance.
At the southern end is ′Aimakapa Fishpond, the largest on the Kona Coast. Separated from the ocean by a high berm, it resembles a rectangular lake and is home to ae′o (Hawaiian black-neck stilt) and ‘alae kea (Hawaiian coot), which are both endangered native waterbirds. Adjacent to the fishpond is the salt-and-pepper Honokohau Beach, which is ideal for sunning, strolling and even swimming when waters are calm.
At the southern end of the beach is a heiau and the partially submerged ′Ai′opio Fishtrap. In ancient times, fish swam into an opening in the rock wall at high tide and were trapped inside when the tide fell. Now it’S a favorite spot for green sea turtles, who feed and rest by the handful. Humans are also allowed to swim (and snorkel) within the fishtrap’S protected waters. It makes an ideal shallow keiki pool; just don’t climb on the rocks or disturb the turtles. The south side has the sandiest entrances. There are pit toilets, but the only drinking water is at the visitors center. To drive to Honokohau Beach, enter Honokohau Harbor on Kealakehe Parkway, take the first right and follow signs to the entrance.
The main entrance to the park’S visitor center is off Hwy 19 between the 96- and 97-mile markers.
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KEAHOLE POINT
At Keahole Point the seafloor drops steeply just offshore, providing a continuous supply of both cold water from 2000ft depths and warm surface water. These are ideal conditions for – you’ll never guess – ocean thermal-energy conversion (OTEC).
Sights & Activities
NATURAL ENERGY LABORATORY OF HAWAII AUTHORITY
The Natural Energy Laboratory of Hawaii Authority (Nelha; www.nelha.org) was created by the state in 1974 to research OTEC and related technologies. Nelha has successfully generated electricity and continues to research methods to transform OTEC into an economically viable energy resource. Public lectures (329-8073; www.keaholepoint.org; per person $8; 10-11:30am Tue-Thu) are held (reservations required).
Today Nelha also sponsors a variety of commercial ventures, including aquaculture production of ogo, algae, abalone, lobster and black pearls. One of Nelha’S tenants is a Japanese company that desalinates pristine Hawaiian seawater and sells it as a tonic in Japan. Their huge ponds are hard to miss.
The signed turnoff to Nelha is between the 94- and 95-mile markers.