Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [182]
WAWALOLI (OTEC) BEACH
The Nelha access road leads to Wawaloli Beach, perfectly positioned for sunset and containing oodles of tide pools along its rocky lava coastline. Swimming conditions are poor, but the quiet beach has bathrooms and outdoor showers. Enjoy a late-afternoon picnic as waves crash, the sun falls and the kids play in a protected keiki pool (best at high tide). Never mind the airplanes.
PINE TREES
Pine Trees, one of west Hawai′i’S best surfing breaks, is just south of Nelha. Why Pine Trees? Early surfers spied mangrove trees near the break, which they thought were pines. No mangroves (or pines) are visible today, but the name stuck.
The break stretches along a pretty beach that is rocky enough to make swimming difficult. There is surf at a number of points depending on the tide and swell. The final bay gets the most consistent yet more forgiving waves. An incoming midtide is favorable, but as the swell picks up in winter these breaks often close out. This place attracts a crowd, so if you plan to paddle out, respect the priority of locals.
When the access road to Nelha veers to the right, look left for an extremely rutted dirt road leading about 2 miles further south to Pine Trees. You need a high-clearance 4WD to make it, or you can walk, but it’S hot. Gates close between 8pm and 6am.
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ONIZUKA SPACE CENTER
Astronaut Ellison S Onizuka Space Center (329-3441; Kona Airport; adult/child under 12 $3/1; 8:30am-4:30pm) pays tribute to the Big Island native who perished in the 1986 Challenger space shuttle disaster. The little museum has interesting astronaut and space exhibits and sits between the airport’S departure and arrival buildings. Don’t make a special trip, but it’S worth finding if you’re waiting for a flight.
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MT HUALALAI SLOPES
To trek around Mount Hualalai, which is largely private land, you need to join a tour; contact either Hawaii Forest & Trail (331-8505, 800-464-1993; www.hawaii-forest.com) or Hawaiian Walkways 800-457-7759; www.hawaiianwalkways.com); Click here for details.
Sights & Activities
MOUNTAIN THUNDER COFFEE PLANTATION
At an elevation of 3200ft, this organic coffee farm (325-2136; 888-414-5662; www.mountainthunder.com; 73-1944 Hao St; 9am-4pm, last tour 4pm) grows and roasts some of Kona’S best coffee (with the awards to prove it). The key is the elevation, which allows the beans to ripen more slowly, and a commitment to quality, since each acre yields less. Mountain Thunder also offers the most-involved tours. The free 20-minute tour (every hour) is good (and wheelchair accessible), but the recommended two-hour VIP Tour (per person $30, reserve ahead, lunch extra) takes in the whole operation. Become Roast Master for a Day (call for rates), and you roast 5lb of your own beans. Call for directions.
KONA CLOUD FOREST SANCTUARY
Above 3000ft on the slopes of Mt Hualalai, the Kaloko Mauka subdivision contains this spectacular 70-acre forest sanctuary (www.konacloudlforest.com) protecting an unusual ‘cloud forest’ ecosystem, where plants absorb moisture from clouds rather than from rain (hence the name), creating a lush haven for native plants and birds. The sanctuary also contains demonstration gardens of non-native species, such as over 100 varieties of bamboo, which horticulture expert Norm Bezona is studying for their viability and use on the Big Island. To visit, contact Hawaiian Walkways (800-457-7759; www.hawaiianwalkways.com; tour adult/child $120/100), which has a daily morning tour, including a stop at Mountain Thunder Coffee.
Sleeping
Mango Sunset B&B (325-0909; www.mangosunset.com; 73-4261 Mamalahoa Hwy; r $95-110; ) The organic Lyman Kona Coffee Farm also runs this three-room B&B. The gregarious owner reserves coffee tours for guests only; the estate does everything from seed to cup. The small, plain rooms are tightly bunched, but they are nicely cared for and share a lanai with sweeping coastal views. Two rooms share a bath, and all share a partial kitchen and grill. Breakfasts are a gourmet feast.