Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [193]
Golfers will be itching to play the combined 36 holes of the Mauna Kea & Hapuna Golf Courses (882-5400; Hapuna course guest/nonguest $125/165). The Hapuna course was designed by Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay, and Mauna Kea is a 72-par championship course that is currently being redesigned by Rees Jones (call for fees and opening); it consistently ranks among the top 10 courses in the world.
All the resorts offer excellent tennis courts with pro shops, but the Seaside Tennis Club (882-5420; per person per day $20; 7am-6pm) offers 13 Plexipave oceanside tennis courts, holds round-robin tournaments and arranges partners.
Festivals & Events
In September locals flock to the annual Poke Contest (880-3424; www.pokecontest.com; admission $5), which is the ‘signature event’ of the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel’S Aloha Festival. Several dozen professional and amateur chefs compete and sample out their concoctions after the judging concludes.
Sleeping & Eating
Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel (880-1111, 866-774-6236; www.princeresortshawaii.com; r $415-725, ste $1350; ) With the reopening of the Mauna Kea, Hapuna Beach seems more than ever in need of a makeover. This ‘sister’ hotel opened in 1995 and immediately impresses with its grand architecture and enviable position on Hapuna Beach. But the seams are showing (sometimes literally) in the rooms; while they are good-sized with great bathroom layouts, the decor feels washed-out and the furniture tired – particularly for the rate. Score an internet deal. Hapuna Beach offers several restaurants and bars, a beautiful pool and various entertainment, such as traditional Hawaiian music and hula.
Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (882-7222, 866-977-4589; www.maunakeabeachhotel.com; 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr; r $450-850, ste from $800; ) The Mauna Kea had its grand reopening in March 2009 (after this book was researched), and initial reviews have been mixed. For some, the renovations haven’t quite met the high expectations of a flagship resort (nor matched the high-end competition), while other longtime guests have been enchanted and grateful to have the old lady back in action. Rooms have been enlarged, and the decor and amenity upgrades aim for a more contemporary feel, while maintaining the ‘understated elegence’ the hotel is known for. Certainly, book an ocean-view deluxe, and the lanai baths with their ‘wall-less showers’ will leave a stunning impression. Of course, the beach hasn’t changed.
Entertainment
Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (882-5810; 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr; adult/child luau 5-12 $86/43; 5:30pm Tue) The Mauna Kea luau, which resumed shortly after this book went to press, was always one of the island’S best.
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SPENCER BEACH PARK
Kids and families love to swim in the gentle waters at Spencer Beach, and its campground is the best place along this stretch of coast to sleep under the stars. That said, the waters are silty (Kawaihae Harbor blocks the clearing currents) and, though pretty, the beach seems dowdy compared to its fashion-plate siblings just south.
The park infrastructure is great, and better kept than most; there’S a lifeguard station, picnic tables and a pavilion, BBQ grills, rest rooms, showers, drinking water, basketball and volleyball courts, and an on-site camp host. Plus, a short hike south, along the shady coastal Ala Kahakai Trail, leads to Mau′umae Beach (left); look for the ‘Na Ala Hele’ sign near the pavilion.
Two areas allow camping: one is within low trees by the water, and the other is an exposed, dirt picnic area. Regular winds kick up the dust here, the only real downfall. A county permit is required