Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [194]
The turnoff to Spencer Beach Park (and Pu′ukohola Heiau National Historic Site) is off Hwy 270, between Kawaihae and the intersection with Hwy 19.
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PU′UKOHOLA HEIAU NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE
By 1790 Kamehameha the Great had conquered Maui, Lana′i and Moloka′i. However, power over his home island of Hawai′i proved to be a challenge. When a prophet said that if he built a heiau dedicated to his war god Kuka′ilimoku, he’d rule all the islands, Kamehameha immediately went to work building Pu′ukohola Heiau (882-7218; www.nps.gov/puhe; admission free; 7:45am-4:55pm).
According to legend, Kamehameha labored alongside his men in a human chain 20 miles long, transporting rocks hand to hand from Pololu Valley in North Kohala. After finishing the heiau by the summer of 1791, Kamehameha held a dedication ceremony and invited his rival and cousin, Keoua, the chief of Ka′u. Keoua accepted, understanding his fate: when Keoua’S patroness, Pele, destroyed a portion of his army in an eruption earlier that same year, he knew it was a sign that Kamehameha was destined to win; Click here). When Keoua arrived at Pu′ukohola, he was killed and taken to the luakini as the first offering to the gods. Kamehameha, now sole ruler of the Big Island, eventually united all the islands by 1810.
With a prime coastal vantage, Pu′ukohola Heiau is perhaps the most physically majestic heiau on the Big Island, standing 224ft by 100ft, with 16ft-to-20ft walls. Though unadorned today, it once held wooden ki′i and thatched structures, including an oracle tower, an altar, a drum house and a shelter for the high priest. Original paintings by Herb Kane, the highlight of the revamped visitors center, bring this to life.
In addition to excellent exhibits, the visitors center has a variety of videos on Hawaiian history and culture. Short, easy, sun-baked trails lead to the heiau and past the ruins of Mailekini Heiau, which predates Pu′ukohola. A third temple, Hale o Kapuni Heiau, dedicated to shark gods, lies submerged offshore.
Unfortunately, the 2006 earthquake damaged both Pu′ukohola and Mailekini Heiau, and they are in the middle of a multiyear repair project using olokea, or traditional ladders, to put the stones back in place. Even when repairs are finished, it’S doubtful the public will be allowed to walk on the heiau again.
In August, the park has a free cultural festival, with double-hull canoe rides, craft demonstrations, Hawaiian food and entertainment. Traditionally, a Hawaiian group also re-enacts a royal court procession and battles; for now they’re using the festival as an opportunity to rebuild the heiau.
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KAWAIHAE
Kawaihae is the Big Island’S second-largest deepwater commercial harbor, and at first glance it’S just an unsightly industrial dock. What an unexpected surprise, then, to discover this sun-bleached hamlet contains destination-worthy eats and the island’S best (make that only) live jazz supper club.
Sights & Activities
Outside the harbor, North Kohala has healthy reef ecosystems – with numerous lava tubes, arches and pinnacles – that make for great, uncrowded diving and snorkeling. To explore this part of the coast, visit Kohala Divers (882-7774; www.kohaladivers.com; Kawaihae Center, Hwy 270; snorkeling $75, dives $100-140), which offers dive, snorkeling and seasonal whale-watching tours (plus gear rental). Dive groups are kept small (with a six-to-one diver-to-guide ratio).
South of Kawaihae, stop by the locally owned Hamakua Macadamia Nut Company (882-1690, 888-643-6688; www.hawnnut.com; Maluokalani St; admission free; 8am-5:30pm) for a quick, personal tour, generous samples and tasty gifts. The eco-conscious company halves its fuel use by burning ground mac-nut shells. To get here, turn mauka just north of the 4-mile marker.
Eating & Drinking
Mr K’S Miracles on Rice (882-1511; Kawaihae Center; donburi & plate lunches $6.50-10; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Friendly, fresh, and quick, this hole-in-the-wall takeout window