Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [197]
In 1963 the National Park Service designated Mo′okini Heiau as Hawaii’S first registered National Historic Landmark. Fifteen years later, it was deeded to the state.
About 1000yd down a dirt road below the heiau are stone-walled foundations that are believed to be the site of Kamehameha’S birth (Click here). As the legend goes, when Kamehameha was born on a stormy winter night in 1758, his mother was told by a kahuna that her son would be a powerful ruler and conquer all the islands. Upon hearing this, the ruling high chief of Hawai′i ordered all male newborns killed. Thus, after Kamehameha was taken to the Mo′okini Heiau for his birth rituals, he was spirited away into hiding.
The current kahuna nui (high priestess), Leimomi Mo′okini Lum, is the seventh high priestess of the Mo′okini bloodline serving the temple. In 1978 she lifted the kapu that restricted access to the temple, thereby opening it to visitors. In 1994, she rededicated the heiau to ‘the children of the world,’ and she requests that visitors bring a flower lei or blossom (symbolizing a child of the land) and leave it as a gift to the heiau. You are allowed to enter the stone fence surrounding the heiau, but do not climb on the heiau.
The heiau suffered minor damage during the 2006 earthquake, but Lum doesn’t want it repaired, and the state will honor her request. At the time she said: ‘It has been here 1500 years. I’m not going to change it. I’m 80. I don’t look that good, but I looked good when I was 20.’
Getting There & Away
There are two routes to the heiau. The first and most convenient is to turn makai off the highway onto Old Coast Guard Station Rd, between the 18- and 19-mile markers. Follow the one-lane paved, potholed road for just over a mile. Turn right onto a red-cinder road, which is blocked by a locked cattle gate. If you call ahead, the gate will be left open and you can drive in, but you are also welcome to park here (without blocking the gate) and walk the rest of the way to the heiau (about 15 minutes). The alternative route is to drive toward ′Upolu Airport, then turn south on the coastal dirt road. This rough 4WD road is impassable after rain.
Return to beginning of chapter
HAWI
pop 940
Little Hawi (hah-vee), which is a former sugar-company town, has been remade into a rustic, picturesque two blocks of artful, upscale fun exuding a certain northern California vibe. Even a rainy day doesn’t spoil the pleasure of walking among the attractive shops (browsing for cigars, fudge, Japanese tea and handcarved koa bowls) and getting a gourmet bite. Stay for a day or two and you’ll soon feel like a regular.
South of Hawi, Hwy 250 (Kohala Mountain Rd) to Waimea is one of the most scenic drives on the island: with Mt Hualalai, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa posing in a CinemaScope panorama.
Hawi has a post office, grocery store and gas station to round out town services. A cool and shady park with giant banyan trees is on Hwy 250. Behind it is the old sugar-mill tower, a remnant of the town’S former mainstay. The Kohala Town Theater, behind the Kohala Village Inn, shows second-run Hollywood movies (tickets $3; 7:30pm) on Friday night.
Sleeping
Kohala Village Inn (889-0404; www.kohalavillageinn.com; 55-514 Hawi Rd; s $65, d $75-85, ste $110; ) The inn’S 19 cozy rooms are much nicer than the plantation-era, motel-style building suggests. Inside each are attractive plank floors, tile baths, warm furniture, soft towels and cable TV. The hotel is a short walk from the main strip.
Plantation House (889-0404; www.hawiplantationhouse.com; house $800, with cottage $900, cottage alone $150; ) The Kohala Village Inn also rents this enormous six-bedroom, six-bathroom plantation home (sleeping 14) that would make a memorable group retreat. Rented separately, the detached cottage becomes a secluded romantic hideaway.
Eating & Drinking
For its size, Hawi serves