Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [198]
Kava Kafé (889-0505; Kohala Trade Center, Hwy 270; kava $5-10; 4:21-8:59pm Mon-Fri) Try kava at this local hole-in-the-wall. Don’t like the taste? Try its dolled-up Maya Chocolate – kava with coconut milk, ginger, chocolate, cayenne and cinnamon.
Kohala Coffee Mill (889-5577; Akoni Pule Hwy; snacks $3-8; 6:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-5:30pm Sat & Sun) This comfy little espresso shop has smoothies and muffins, burgers and bagels, plus heavenly Tropical Dreams ice-cream.
Upstairs at the Mill (889-5015; Kohala Coffee Mill; ) Enjoy fudge, shave ice and internet access (per 30 minutes $5) at this spot.
Short ‘n’ Sweet (889-1444; www.shortnsweet.biz; Kohala Trade Center, Hwy 270; salads & panini $7-9; 9am-3pm-ish) Everything is delectable and homemade at this tiny two-table bakery. Ease into the day with a breakfast panini or delicate, French-style croissant and pastries, and at midday nosh on house-made focaccia-bread sandwiches and organic salads. On Friday evening (4:30pm to 7:30pm) locals pack in for pizza made from scratch. Or skip all that and go straight for the rich, decadent sweets.
Luke’S Place (889-1155; 55-514 Hawi Rd; mains $7-19; 11:30am-‘till pau,’ or 10pm-ish) This new restaurant is still looking for its groove, with a menu of predictable standards. No such problem troubles the attached, thatch-roof Tiki Bar, which books a wide range of live music most nights and makes a convivial local watering hole.
Bamboo (889-5555; www.bamboorestaurant.info/restaurant.htm; Hwy 270; lunch $9-14, dinner $14-35; 11:30am-2:30pm & 6-8pm Tue-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm Sun) Bamboo enjoys abiding affection as a highly regarded local institution, one that promises East-meets-West fusion cuisine delivered with ‘fresh island style.’ It’S a winning combination, and done well. Still, it’S less innovative than it once was, and not every dish or side arrives equally refined. However, the relaxed, friendly setting – a cheery mix of suspended Balinese umbrellas, twinkling Christmas lights, and the warm wood interior of the historic building – is pure Hawi, particularly on weekends when live music sweeps everyone up in a tide of aloha.
Sushi Rock (889-5900; Hwy 270; sushi $7-17, mains $22-26; noon-3pm, 5:30-8pm Thu-Tue) In this tiny shack of a restaurant, evenings dissolve into cross-table chattering; no one stays a stranger long. After all, youthful owner-chef Rio Miceli, a Hawi native, has created a sushi maven’S dream: Miceli’S traditional and new-wave sushi has real personality and a playful creativity, with local ingredients, nuanced flavors and a casual artistry. Generous rolls don’t toss in every fish and slap on a goofy name. Seared beef melts like butter, and you can order pure wasabi – the ground root, not the paste. Plus, there’S a full bar, cooked entrées and occasional live music. Arrive early.
Takata Store (889-5413; Akoni Pule Hwy; 8am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) Between Kapa′au and Hawi, this is a decent, family-run market for groceries.
Shopping
L Zeidman Gallery (889-1400; www.lzeidman.com; Hwy 270; 10am-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun-Mon) Most people can only afford to browse the exquisitely crafted wood bowls and sculpture at this gallery, which sells museum-quality pieces by island artists.
As Hawi Turns (889-5023; Hwy 270; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun) Come here for stylish women’S wear and eclectic fun stuff.
Gallery at Bamboo (889-1441; www.bamboorestaurant.info/gallery.htm; Hwy 270; 11:30-8pm Tue-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm Sun) The Old General Store contains Bamboo (opposite) and this gallery, chock-full of paintings, photos, funky art and high-end gifts. Don’t miss upstairs.
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THE LONELY ONE: KAMEHAMEHA THE GREAT
When Kamehameha was born in 1758 near Mo′okini Heiau (Click here), a kahuna prophesied he would one day rule all of Hawaii, and he was taken away before jealous island chiefs could kill him. Kamehameha was then raised in secret in North Kohala’S valleys, including Waipi′o Valley (Click here), where years later the high chief Kalaniopu′u appointed him the guardian of the war