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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [202]

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this interesting slice of island history, Waimea offers travelers great lodgings, first-rate art galleries and gourmet eats. So long as you don’t mind the fog and brisk afternoon winds, Waimea makes an appealing base for exploring the nearby Kohala and Hamakua Coasts.


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ORIENTATION

Waimea is also referred to as Kamuela, which is the Hawaiian spelling of Samuel; most claim it’S for Samuel Parker of Parker Ranch fame. Maps usually list both names, the phone book and post office only use Kamuela, and, yes, it gets confusing.

The junction of Hwys 19 and 190 is the center of town; most businesses and sights are near it. From Hilo, Hwy 19 is commonly called the Mamalahoa Hwy, though west of Hwy 190, Hwy 19 becomes Kawaihae Rd, while Hwy 190 continues as the Mamalahoa Hwy. If you’ve followed this, remember that, further east, a section of the ‘Old Mamalahoa Hwy’ intersects and parallels Hwy 19.


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INFORMATION

Big Island Visitors Bureau (885-1655; www.bigisland.org; Suite 27B, Waimea Center, 65-1158 Mamalahoa Hwy; 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Though a sales office, it welcomes walk-in visitors; in the mall, around the corner from KTA.

Emma’S Waimea Washerette (345-8213; Kawaihae Rd; 6am-9pm, till 11pm Fri & Sat) Across from Tako Taco.

KTA Super Store (885-8866; Waimea Center, 65-1158 Mamalahoa Hwy; 6am-11pm) Has a pharmacy.

North Hawaii Community Hospital (885-4444; 67-1125 Mamalahoa Hwy) Emergency services available 24 hours.

Post office (800-275-8777; 67-1197 Mamalahoa Hwy; 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Address all Waimea mail to Kamuela.

www.ahualoa.net Visit this website for a more personal window into local (particularly agricultural) life.

www.kamuela.com The town’S official website is a good source of information.


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SIGHTS

Parker Ranch Historic Homes

Immerse yourself in the Parker family’S epic saga by visiting the Parker Ranch’S two 19th-century homes (885-5433; www.parkerranch.com; 67-1435 Mamalahoa Hwy; adult/child 4-12 $9/5, family $23; 10am-5pm, last entry 4pm), less than a mile south of the intersection of Hwys 190 and 19. In 2008, the Parker Ranch Museum closed, and all the family’S heirlooms and memorabilia were moved here. Visits begin with a 20- to 30-minute docent presentation, after which visitors explore on their own.

Built in 1962, Pu′uopelu is the estate’S sprawling 8000-sq-ft grand manor. It’S packed with amazing historical artifacts, ornate furnishings and some show-stopping art. The ranch owns one of the largest French, postimpressionist and Oriental collections in Hawaii – courtesy of Parker Ranch’S last owner, Richard Smart. Another room celebrates Smart’S theatrical career on Broadway and in Europe. Adjacent to the main house is Mana Hale, the koa wood, saltbox-style home John Parker built in the 1840s. The gleaming interior is original – it was dismantled board by board and rebuilt here. Period furnishings, photos of the hardy Parker clan and exhibits on ranch life fill the handful of rooms.

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NORTH KOHALA UPCOUNTRY RIDES

Get a feel for Hawaii’S paniolo culture through a horseback ride or visit to one of North Kohala’S upcountry ranches. The riding is open range, not nose-to-tail, and there are trotting and cantering opportunities on all rides. Riders must be at least eight years old and 4ft tall.

Paniolo Riding Adventures (889-5354; www.panioloadventures.com; Hwy 250; rides $69-159) Offers short, long, picnic and sunset rides over 11,000-acre Ponoholo Ranch, a working cattle ranch. Horses are all riding horses, and they’re selected for the rider’S experience, from ‘city slicker’ to ‘wrangler.’

Na′alapa Stables (889-0022; www.naalapastables.com; Hwy 250; rides $68-89, wagon tour adult/child $37/18) Na′alapa Stables organizes rides across the pastures of the 8500-acre Kahua Ranch, affording fine views of the coast from its 3200ft elevation. Also offered is a narrated historical tour of the ranch aboard an 1860s-style farm wagon.

Evening at the Ranch (987-2108; www.evening-at-kahua.com;

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