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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [203]

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Kohala Ranch Rd; adult/child under 12 $104/55) This is essentially a cowboy luau at Kahua Ranch, with a Western-style BBQ dinner and an open beer and wine bar. A guitar-playing paniolo provides entertainment, while activities include roping, branding a souvenir shingle, playing horseshoes, line dancing and stargazing. Naturally, the evening ends with marshmallows around a campfire. It’S great fun, if a decidedly family affair.

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In addition, the estate maintains beautiful gardens, and visitors to the homes are welcome to picnic on the grounds.

Isaacs Art Center

With a stunning collection of significant and historic Hawaiian paintings and artifacts, this art center (885-5884; www.isaacsartcenter.org; 65-1268 Kawaihae Rd; admission free; 10am-5pm Tue-Sat) more resembles a museum than a traditional gallery, and is perhaps the best outside of the Honolulu Academy of Arts. It’S housed in a 1915 plantation schoolhouse (now on the historic register), whose single row of six classrooms makes an ideal exhibition space. The center owns the entire collection of Madge Tennent, and highlights include Tennent’S Lei Queen Fantasia, Jules Tavernier’S Kilauea by Moonlight, and especially Herb Kawainui Kane’S The Arrival of Captain Cook at Kealakekua Bay in January 1779. Many other important artists (not all Hawaiian) are represented. Sales benefit the attached Hawai′i Preparatory Academy, which runs the center and uses it to teach art to its students. Don’t miss it.

Waimea Farmers Market

Waimea’S farmers market (7am-noon Sat) is an island highlight and certainly the town’S most vibrant and fun community event. Locals turn out in droves to stock up on fresh produce and recent gossip. A wide selection of food stalls emphasize organic produce and specialty items: fresh eggs, herbs and plants, local meat and honey, beautiful flowers and plenty of cooked food. There’S a smaller selection of high-quality craft stalls. The market is in front of the Hawaiian Home Lands office, near the 55-mile marker on Hwy 19.

WM Keck Observatory Office

The lobby of this working office (885-7887; www.keckobservatory.org; 65-1120 Mamalahoa Hwy; 8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) is open to the public. It’S worth visiting if you won’t be going to Mauna Kea’S Onizuka Center (Click here). A computer station and video nicely overview the twin Kecks and their astronomical work, plus there are pretty photos, scale models and a telescope trained on Mauna Kea.

Church Row

Conveniently enough, the historic churches of Waimea are gathered along the same street just off Mamalahoa Hwy. In the park that fronts the ‘row,’ a display describes all five, which include Baptist, Buddhist, Mormon and Hawaiian Christian places of worship. All hold services.

The Imiola Congregational Church (services 9:30am) was constructed in 1857 and restored in 1976. The beautiful interior was built mainly of koa, which glows unadorned by stained glass or painted scenes. In the churchyard is the grave of missionary Lorenzo Lyons, who arrived in 1832 and spent 54 years in Waimea. Lyons wrote many of the hymns that are still sung in Hawaiian here each Sunday. Also in the garden is the church bell, which is too heavy for the church roof to support.

Anna Ranch Heritage Center

The life and times of Hawaii’S ‘first lady of ranching,’ Anna Leialoha Lindsey Perry-Fiske, are celebrated at this 14-room historic ranch house (885-4426; www.annaranch.org; 65-1480 Kawaihae Rd; tours $7; by appointment Wed, Fri & Sat), which is stuffed with memorabilia. It makes an interesting alternative to Parker Ranch. Tours must be booked in advance.


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ACTIVITIES

Ulu La′au Waimea Nature Park (885-5210; www.waimeaoutdoorcircle.org; 7am-5:30pm), which is off Hwy 190, is a 10-acre, lovingly tended community garden (featuring native plants) that’S perfect for a picnic. If you have young kids, head for the excellent playground in Waimea Park on Kawaihae Rd.

Of course, horseback riding is quite popular in Waimea, and a great outfit is near town. Dahana Ranch Roughriders (885-0057, 888-399-0057;

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