Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [218]
Today, about 50 people live in the valley, most of them working some 150 acres of taro patches (many laid out in the 16th century). Other Waipi′o crops include lotus root, avocados, breadfruit, oranges, limes and pakalolo.
Dangers & Annoyances
Waipi′o Stream divides the beach in half; take care crossing it, as it is full of ankle-twisting, slippery rocks. It’S usually better to cross in deeper, slower-moving water away from the surf. In the winter rainy season the stream can swell till it’S impassable, with occasional flash floods. In fact, all valley streams along the Windward Coast are susceptible to flash floods; be watchful for rising waters, and wait to cross. Floods usually subside in a few hours.
As for the surf, it is extremely rough year round, with a tremendous undertow, hidden rocks and rogue waves.
Finally, don’t drink from any creeks or streams without first boiling or treating the water. Feral animals roam the area, making leptospirosis a real threat (Click here).
Activities
Locals enjoy surfing at Waipi′o, but it’S not for novices or newcomers; watch the waves for an afternoon and talk to locals before putting your board in the water.
Time the waves and you can certainly take a dip, but rough surf discourages real swimming; use extreme caution in or near the water.
Besides hanging out, most people hike. In addition to walking into and out of the valley, the beach area has enjoyable explorations. If you want more, consider tackling the Muliwai Trail (Click here). This challenging two- or three-day trip starts from the far end of Waipi′o Valley and leads to the adjacent Waimanu Valley.
WAIPI′O VALLEY HIKE
Spending a day in Waipi‘o Valley is reason enough to come to the Big Island. From the lookout a very steep, 1-mile paved road descends to the valley floor. You can jiggle-jog down the 25% grade in about 20 minutes, but it’S a 40-minute thigh-burn return uphill; if you’re lucky, someone will offer you a lift.
* * *
SMALL FARMS, BIG ISLAND
With its sugar plantations long gone, Hawai′i is experiencing a surge in small-farm agriculture. Many farms focus on high-end, specialized products using organic, sustainable methods. Many also welcome visitors and are eager to join the growing wave of agricultural tourism.
One company specializing in these tours is Hawaii AgVentures (885-5580, 800-660-6011; www.hawaiiagventures.com), which can tailor specific trips. Another excellent resource is Hawai′i’S Slow Food Convivium (www.slowfoodhawaii.org). It has regular food events and can connect you to local producers. To ensure you’re buying local, look for the words ‘Island Fresh’ and the ‘Hawaii Seal of Quality.’
Three farms have teamed up along the Old Mamalahoa Hwy outside Honoka′a: in one morning, you can visit Long Ears Hawaiian Coffee (775-0385; www.longearscoffee.com), Volcano Island Honey (775-1000, www.volcanoislandhoney.com), which makes highly regarded white honey, and Mauna Kea Tea (775-1171, www.maunakeatea.com). The three-farm tour ($75) starts at 8:45am and lasts till 12:30pm; to book, visit www.visitahualoa.com, or contact the farms directly.
In fact, on the Big Island, tea may soon be the new coffee: a dozen small tea farms, most in East Hawai′i, now focus on growing the highest quality Camellia sinensis possible. One is Tea Hawaii (967-7637; www.teahawaii.com) in Volcano village, which does a joint tour with Volcano Winery (Click here). Another is Onomea Tea (www.onomeatea.com) near Onomea Bay on the Hamakua Coast. For coffee farm tours, Click here.
Also on the Hamakua Coast is the Hawaiian Vanilla Company (776-1771; www.hawaiianvanilla.com; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri), which was the first commercial vanilla farm in the US. It has regular tastings and culinary events at the mill, and it conducts a Hamakua mushroom tour, with a gourmet dinner.
Finally, chocolate