Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [219]
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At the bottom, turn mauka; in five minutes you reach perfect views of ribbony Hi′ilawe Falls, which at over 1200ft is Hawai′i’S highest free-fall waterfall. There’S no trail or public access to the falls themselves. You’re free to follow the road up-valley; you pass private homes and taro fields. However, you soon reach a deep stream crossing, and past that, a growing sense of privacy. Respect all ‘Kapu – No Trespassing’ signs.
Back at the main junction, turn makai along a muddy dirt road to reach sublime Waipi′o Beach in about 10 minutes. The sparkling black-sand beach is lined with graceful ironwood trees, and free-roaming horses often walk the roads and rest on the sand beside you. Bucolic Waipi′o Stream enters the ocean (Click here), splitting the rockier eastern strand from the sandy western end.
At the far east end, it’S possible to boulder for 20 minutes around the coast to Kaluahine Falls (it’S sometimes dry) with views of distant Wai′ulili Falls cascading into the sea. However, you’ll need luck, agility and good timing; the large rocks are unsteady and huge waves can crash up to the cliff face. Be extremely cautious, and never take your eyes off the sea.
MULIWAI TRAIL TO WAIMANU VALLEY
For some, the Zorro-like scratch of the Z trail on the far cliff will beckon, and, by all means, strap on your boots and day-hike a portion of the Muliwai Trail. Just 15 steep minutes yields unparalleled valley views, and more gorgeous sights await once you’ve crested the cliff. However, getting all the way to Waimanu Valley and back in a day is unrealistic. Depending on pace and fitness, the total 9.5-mile hike from the Waipi′o Lookout takes six to eight hours one way. Backpackers should really consider this a two-night trip, so you can enjoy a full day in timeless Waimanu Valley, which is like a mini Waipi′o. Before starting, spend time reviewing the lookout trailboard; the ranger can also give advice.
At the far west end of the beach, just inland, the trail begins to the right of a locked gate; in a few feet, you come to a Na Ala Hele and state forestry sign. Proceed uphill. In 30 minutes or so, an ironwood grove provides delicious shade, and the first break in the grove signals your last and best view of Waipi′o – rest here and take it in.
After another 15 minutes in the ironwoods, the trail heads inland, into pine forest, and levels out; you’ve climbed over 1200ft in about a mile! You quickly reach Helipad 1, and from here the trail dips in and out of stream gulches for about 5 miles. Hugged by cliffs, surrounded by forest, periodically swarmed by mosquitoes, you get only peekaboo views of the ocean until the end.
Compensating for this, in the shadiest heart of each gulch are some of the prettiest cascading rivulets imaginable; some become waterfalls, some burble in quiet pools. If treated, the water is drinkable. At Helipad 2, you are about halfway there; at Helipad 3 is a trail shelter (where you can camp if you have a Waimanu permit); and soon after Helipad 4 the difficult descent into Waimanu Valley begins.
The final mile of the trail can be badly maintained and entails a steep, slippery and exposed descent of 1200ft. Fatigue (and recent rainy weather) can make this particularly treacherous, so go slow. If it’S too sketchy, stay overnight at the Helipad 3 trail shelter.
On weekends and holidays you may be shocked to arrive and find the camping area is crowded; local kayakers sometimes come with tons of gear. Arrive midweek and you might have the black-sand beach and waterfalls to yourself.
Tours
Taking a guided tour is another popular option for experiencing the valley; reserve all in advance.
Hawaiian Walkways (775-0372, 800-457-7759; www.hawaiianwalkways.com; guided hikes $120) Takes you on a hike through private land along