Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [228]
Further east, Onekahakaha Beach Park (Map) should be the destination for families with small children, who can splash safely in a broad, shallow, sandy-bottomed pool (with steps) that is well protected by a rock wall. On calm days, an unprotected cove on the Hilo side is good for snorkeling. The park has lifeguards on weekends and holidays, rest rooms, showers, grassy lawns, covered pavilions and the Hilo Horseshoe Club.
Older kids and snorkelers should aim for the adjacent James Kealoha and Carlsmith Beach Parks (Map). On the east side, Carlsmith contains a shallow, protected tub of aquamarine water, white sand and sea turtles. Tropical fish are sparse, and cold currents can obscure visibility, but snorkeling with the ancient honu is dreamy. James Kealoha, on the western side, is rocky and faces the open ocean; winter waves are popular with surfers, and locals net fish. There are rest rooms, covered pavilions, a coconut grove and weekend lifeguards.
Another mile eastward are the adjacent Waiolena and Waiuli Beach Parks (formerly Leleiwi Beach; Map). This pretty stretch of ragged coastline gets waves big enough to attract surfers, and it’S known as the best place to shore-dive in Hilo. The entrance is a bit tricky; ask for advice at Nautilus Dive Center (opposite).
Just beyond these, near the end of the road, Richardson Ocean Park (Map) has just enough black-sand beach to inspire sunbathing. So long as it’S calm, swimming is fine and snorkeling is super at the warmer, eastern end among the lava rocks; in late afternoon sea turtles often nestle here. When surf is rough, bodyboarders take to the waves (called a ‘junk wave’ by local surfers). There are rest rooms, showers, picnic tables and a daily lifeguard.
North of downtown Hilo, the protected cove at Honoli′i Beach Park (Map) has Hilo’S best bodyboarding and surfing, and it has the crowded lineups to prove it. A lovely grassy picnic area fronts the beach, with fantastic views of Hilo, plus there are rest rooms, outdoor showers and a lifeguard. Honoli′i isn’t the best for swimming, as the adjacent river often muddies the waters. From Hilo, take Hwy 19 north; after the 4-mile marker, turn right onto Nahala St, then left onto Kahoa St. People park on the roadside and walk down to the park.
Waterfalls
These three waterfalls are a few minutes from downtown along Waianuenue Ave.
RAINBOW FALLS
Providing the sort of instant gratification that’S a godsend to parents and tour-bus operators, this delightful cascade (Map), adjacent to the parking lot, winks a rainbow in the morning when the sun is right. The cave beneath the falls is said to have been the home of Hina, mother of Maui. You can’t get to the cave, but a short, unpaved path leads from the parking lot to the top of the falls, where there are some inviting pools with a rope swing. The trail passes a tremendous banyan tree, whose thick canopy blocks the sun and whose roots could swallow children. It’S great to play on, but be prepared for mosquitoes.
PE′EPE′E FALLS & BOILING POTS
Along Waianuenue Ave, 2 miles past Rainbow Falls, this waterfall (Map) is prettier still, a series of dramatic falls that create swirling, bubbling pools (or ‘boiling pots’). A grassy lawn and bathrooms make a good picnic spot, but a better one is down the slippery, rocky trail by the water’S edge. However, don’t dismiss the ‘No Swimming’ sign. Drownings do occur, and stagnant water can carry a risk of leptospirosis.
WAI′ALE FALLS
Less than a mile further you’ll cross a bridge in front of Wai′ale Falls, which are not on any tour bus itinerary. A ‘Dangerous Swimming’ sign marks the uneven, buggy, 15-minute trail through the forest to the top of the falls, where lava-encased swimming holes and a view to the ocean make a wonderful retreat. Locals think so too; come midweek for the