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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [229]

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quietest experience.

Kaumana Caves

These caves (Map) are actually a large lava tube formed by an 1881 Mauna Loa eruption. The tube is extensive (enter the left or right opening), but it narrows periodically and lengthy explorations require some crawling; it’S a much more evocative experience than Thurston Lava Tube in Hawai′i Volcanoes National Park. Bring two flashlights (in case one goes out). The caves are signposted about 4 miles along Kaumana Dr (Hwy 200).

Mauna Loa Macadamia-Nut Visitor Center

Hershey-owned Mauna Loa (Map; 966-8618, 888-628-6256; www.maunaloa.com; Macadamia Rd; 8:30am-5:30pm) provides huge windows on its working factory, where you can watch the humble mac nut as it moves along the assembly line from cracking to roasting to chocolate dipping and packaging. The gift shop, of course, has every variation ready for purchase, with tasters. The factory is well signed about 5 miles south of Hilo; the 3-mile access road dips through acres of macadamia trees.


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HILO FOR CHILDREN

If it’S sunny (or at least not raining), Hilo has a great selection of parks and outdoor amusements. Topping the list is Hilo’S Pana′ewa Rainforest Zoo (Click here), just south of town; time your visit for Saturday’S petting zoo. As for parks, Lili′uokalani Park (Click here) is the prettiest and offers the most, but Wailoa River State Park (Click here) has plenty of space to run, and Kalakaua Park (Map) has a majestic, shady banyan tree perfect for a picnic, plus a time capsule and carp pool. Don’t forget Hilo’S beaches (opposite) or its farmers market (Click here), which provides the memorable opportunity to drink from a fresh-cut coconut. If you visit in September, the annual Hawai′i County Fair (Click here) is a great old-fashioned event with carnival rides.

Of course, if it is raining, well, it only costs a buck to take in a movie at downtown’S Kress Cinemas (Click here). If you don’t like what’S playing there, check out Stadium Cinemas (Click here) in Prince Kuhio Plaza, which also has a video arcade.


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ACTIVITIES

Swimming

For lap swimming, the Ho′olulu Complex (Map; 961-8698; Kalanikoa St) has an impressive, Olympic-sized, open-air pool (with high dive but no kiddie pool). Open swim times vary; call for hours.

For information about beach swimming around Hilo, see opposite.

Diving

The best spot near Hilo is at Waiolena and Waiuli Beach Parks (Map), with depths of 10ft to 70ft, while Pohoiki Bay (Map), in the nearby Puna district, is the best dive site in East Hawai′i, with depths of between 20ft and 100ft. Both have an impressive variety of marine life.

Long the only dive shop in Hilo, the good folks at Nautilus Dive Center (Map; 935-6939; www.nautilusdivehilo.com; 382 Kamehameha Ave; scuba package from $35, dives $85-105; 9am-4pm Mon-Sat) are reliable, friendly and generous with advice. It runs a variety of dives (including a beginner’S intro dive) and has PADI certification courses.

Big Island Spearguns (Map; 961-9061; www.bigislandspearguns.com; 207 Kilauea Ave; trips from $150; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) is a gay-friendly shop specializing in spearfishing trips, but it offers scuba dive trips as well. Three-hour spearfishing tours are one-on-one, and scuba dive trips are also personalized. It hires out snorkel gear.

Surfing

The best surfing spot near Hilo is Honoli′i Cove at Honoli′i Beach Park (Map), but see opposite for other spots.

Stop by Orchidland Surfboards (Map; 935-1533; www.orchidlandsurf.com; 262 Kamehameha Ave; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) for surfboard (per day $20) and bodyboard (per day $12) rentals and to buy surf gear and clothes. Owner Stan Lawrence is an expert surfer, and he opened the Big Island’S first surf shop in 1972. Check his website for surf reports and cool videos.

Golf

Golf is cheap – at least in Hilo. Local duffers adore their 18-hole Hilo Municipal Golf Course (Map; 959-7711; 340 Haihai St; $29 Mon-Fri, $34 Sat & Sun), but another option is the nine-hole Naniloa Country Club Golf Course (Map; 935-3000; 9-/18-hole

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