Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [232]
Naniloa Volcanoes Resort (Map; 969-3333; www.hottours.us; 93 Banyan Dr; r $110-150) Newly renovated rooms are sleekly contemporary but feel done on the cheap; great views are worth the extra cost. Ongoing construction could be disruptive.
Return to beginning of chapter
EATING
Hilo restaurants aim to satisfy local palates, not visitor desires, so it has a surfeit of wonderful neighborhood eats and a dearth of upscale cuisine. Many restaurants are closed Sunday.
Budget
Café 100 (Map; 935-8683; 969 Kilauea Ave; loco moco $2-5.25, plate lunches $6-7; 6:45am-8:30pm Mon-Sat) This legendary drive-in popularized the loco moco – rice topped with hamburger, fried egg and brown gravy. It’S fast food Hawaiian-style, with dozens of varieties: Spam, mahimahi, teriyaki beef, a hot dog, even a garden burger. Portions aren’t big; go crazy, order two!
Planet Cafe (Map; 640-1777; 187 Kilauea Ave; mains $6-9; 7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) This gay-friendly vegetarian café is a gathering spot for Hilo’S hip, alternative-lifestyle contingent. Dishes have culinary flair, like banana pancakes, bagels with mac-nut pesto spread, homemade soups and veggie quesadilla with brie and roasted garlic. Cash only.
Nori’S Saimin & Snacks (Map; 935-9133; Suite 124, Kukuau Plaza, 688 Kino′ole St; noodle soups $5.50-9; 10:30am-11pm Tue-Sat, 10:30am-10pm Sun) A Hilo institution run by a local celebrity chef, Nori’S is all about saimin, that Japanese soup for the soul. Look past the strip-mall setting, perfunctory dining room and spotty service; steaming bowls are packed with goodies (get the wontons with sinus-clearing mustard). The saimin is irresistibly chewy and satisfying.
Aloha Luigi (Map; 934-9112; 264 Keawe St; mains $7.50-12; 9am-3pm Mon & Tue, 9am-7pm Wed-Sat) Sometimes enthusiasm and cheerful decor beat finesse and refinement, and so it is at this bus-your-own-tray place: order either Mexican or Italian, and you won’t want for flavor. The garlicky Caesar salad is a highlight, but there’S nothing wrong with the parmigiana sub or mahimahi burrito. Hit the outdoor patio when the sun shines.
Ken’S House of Pancakes (Map; 935-8711; 1730 Kamehameha Ave; meals $7-13; 24hr) Strand a New Jersey diner in the tropics and you get a mile-long menu filled with mac-nut pancakes, fat crab omelettes, sweetbread French toast, oxtail stew and kalua pig dinners. In other words, it’S ′ono, brah! Local families keep it packed night and day, and it’S the perfect place to bring yours (particularly pint-sized fussy eaters).
Miyo’S (Map; 935-2273; Waiakea Villa, 400 Hualani St; mains $8-13; 11am-2pm & 5:30-8:30pm Mon-Sat) Overlooking Waiakea Pond, Miyo’S resembles a rustic Japanese teahouse and evokes a warm, even romantic, atmosphere. It dishes up tasty renditions of Japanese country cooking – tempura, sesame chicken, beef teriyaki, donburi, sashimi and more. Call ahead to reserve a coveted window table. It’S in the first complex of buildings adjacent to the pond as you enter Waiakea Villa.
Kuhio Grille (Map; 959-2336; Suite A106, Prince Kuhio Plaza; mains $8-18; 6am-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri) Locals needing a fix of traditional Hawaiian comfort food gather at the family-run Kuhio Grille. Its specialty is the filling 1lb laulau (various meats wrapped in taro leaves and steamed). However, all the favorites are here, such as poi, lomilomi (minced, salted salmon), kalua pig, saimin and loco moco. Behind Prince Kuhio Plaza.
Midrange & Top End
Reuben’S (Map; 961-2552; 336 Kamehameha Ave; meals $11-17; 11am-9pm Mon-Sat, till 10pm Fri & Sat) With plates as cheesy as its velvet paintings of Zapata, Reuben’S dishes up satisfyingly greasy renditions of chillies rellenos, fish tacos and enchiladas. Service may be slow, but that’S why Mexico invented the margarita ($5).
Ocean Sushi (Map; 961-6625; 250 Keawe St; rolls $4-7, bentó $12-14; 10am-2pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat) Zip atmosphere, rushed service, linoleum floors – but this sushi joint