Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [233]
Sushi Bar Hime (Map; 961-6356; 14 Furneaux Lane; sushi & sashimi $3-9; 11:30am-1:30pm & 5:30-8pm Tue-Sat, noon-3pm Sun) This hole-in-the-wall with three tiny tables and four stools is an outstanding classic sushi bar. With consummate skill, the understated preparations allow the fresh, high-quality fish to shine. Go figure: the sweetheart owners cashed out of the Maui rat-race to live the simple life in Hilo.
Sombat’S Fresh Thai Cuisine (Map; 936-9336; www.sombats.com; 88 Kanoelehua Ave; dishes $12-18; 10:30am-2pm Mon-Fri, 5-8:30pm Mon-Sat) Sombats serves above average Thai classics made with local produce and fresh herbs (grown by the chef). Soups are aromatic, curries piquant and as hot as you like. The lunch buffet ($7 to $9) is a great deal. The only drawback is the fluorescent-lit, bare dining room in a deserted commercial building.
Pescatore (Map; 969-9090; 235 Keawe St; pizzas $9-13, mains $16-28; 11am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7:30am-9pm Sat & Sun) The ideal neighborhood restaurant, with attentive service and quality ingredients prepared simply, Pescatore satisfies any Italian cravings. The ahi carpaccio is a star, the sausage is homemade, and the authentic fare includes cioppino, fra diavolo and eggplant parmesan. The lounge and bar make waiting a pleasure.
Café Pesto (Map; 969-6640; 308 Kamehameha Ave; pizzas $12-19, dinner mains $17-30; 11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) Housed in a beautifully renovated historical building, Café Pesto has a varied but accomplished menu. It started as a pizza place – and the crisp gourmet-style pies remain noteworthy – but there are delectable risottos, fresh stir-fries, interesting pastas and more, many featuring seafood. With weekend guitarists and a lively mix of locals, a friendlier scene can’t be found downtown.
Jays (Map; 955-8880; 782 Kilauea Ave at Aupuni; tapas $6-12, mains $19-27; 11am-2pm & 5:30-9pm Mon-Sat) This newcomer has made a splash on the dining scene with a robust menu of hearty entrées and oversized tapas. Dishes aim for satisfying, big flavors: crab cakes, 1lb of steamed clams, steak and onions on a sizzling platter, and Hamakua mushroom lobster ravioli. The attractive dining room sports white tablecloths, lazy ceiling fans, colorful art and a dark wood bar.
Hilo Bay Café (Map; 935-4939; Waiakea Center, 315 Maka′ala St; mains $16-30; 11am-9pm Mon-Sat, 5-9pm Sun) Hilo’S only true gourmet destination, Hilo Bay Café serves inventive Hawaiian-infused cuisine that holds its own. Dishes are complex but always perfectly balanced. The crab cakes and the seared macadamia nut–crusted scallops alone are worth the trip. The changing menu includes BBQ ribs, Hamakua mushroom risotto, pork chops with red curry and poke. Service is excellent and friendly, and the short wine list makes choosing easy: all vintages are priced the same. The only knock is the mall setting; despite the restaurant’S stylish modern interior, it isn’t as warmly romantic as the food deserves.
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TOP PICKS – LOCAL GRINDS
Teshima Restaurant (Click here)
Manago Hotel (Click here)
Hawaiian Style Cafe (Click here)
Big Island Grill (Click here)
Kanaka Kava (Click here)
Café 100 (opposite)
Kuhio Grille (opposite)
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Seaside Restaurant (Map; 935-8825; 1790 Kalaniana′ole Ave; mains $21-35; 5-8:30pm Tue-Sun, to 9pm Fri & Sat) This old favorite is as comfortable as a rubbah slippah. Its calling card is that its mullet and aholehole (flagtail) are raised in its own fishponds. The traditional preparation (steamed in ti leaves) is good, but ‘Chinese-style’ is a flavorful variation. If moi is on the menu, order it; this delectable reef fish was once reserved for Hawaiian royalty. It also has the full range of seafood, great poke appetizers and a full bar, but service can be uneven.
Groceries
Picnics that are the stuff of legend can be assembled in Hilo. First stop is always the extensive farmers market (Click here).
Suisan Fish