Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [239]
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TOP PICKS – MEDITATIVE RETREATS
Wood Valley Temple (Click here)
Akiko’S Buddhist B&B (Click here)
Kalani Oceanside Retreat (Click here)
Ramashala (Click here)
Volcano Rainforest Retreat (Click here)
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Coconut Cottage B&B (965-0973, 866-204-7444; www.coconutcottagehawaii.com; 13-1139 Leilani Ave; r incl breakfast $110-140; ) South of Pahoa in a trim residential neighborhood, this four-room B&B is packed with sweet Balinese accents and little luxuries that set a romantic mood. The garden hot tub in a tiki hut and the breezy porch are attractive places to relax, a sensation that’S cultivated by the warm, gracious hosts. Rooms are comfortably cozy; the largest is the detached bungalow with kitchenette. Breakfast is a feast.
Eating
Island Naturals (965-8322; 15-1403 Pahoa Village Rd; 7:30am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, 8am-7pm Sun) For organic produce and picnic lunches; this place has a fresh, interesting range of sandwiches, packaged salads, baked goods and hot food.
Pahoa’S Village Café (965-1133; 15-2471 Pahoa Village Rd; mains $7-13; 8am-midnight Wed-Sat, 8am-9pm Sun) Recently renovated, this attractive café serves good-quality burgers, plate lunches, loco moco, salads and various specials. It also hosts evening entertainment – a mix of music, dancing and karaoke.
Luquin’S Mexican Restaurant (965-9990; 15-2942 Pahoa Village Rd; mains $8-17; 7am-9pm) Luquin’S is the favorite local watering hole, serving a tasty variety of potent margaritas in pint glasses (from $5.50), along with premium tequilas. It serves decent versions of the standard Mexican combo plates – which is really all you need to soak up maybe just one more margarita.
Paolo’S Bistro (965-7033; Pahoa Village Rd; mains $11-20; 5:30-8:30pm Tue-Sun) Check tablecloths, an intimate dining room, and a well-executed short menu of authentic northern Italian cooking make for a satisfying Pahoa evening.
Kaleo’S Bar & Grill (965-5600; 15-2969 Pahoa Village Rd; mains $9-25; 11am-2pm Tue-Fri, 5-8:30pm daily) The menu tries to do too much; Kaleo falls short of its gourmet aims, but it gets points for creativity and for the romantic atmosphere. Stick to simpler preparations – ribs and steaks, penne vodka pesto, burgers – and you won’t be disappointed. Live music most nights.
Getting There & Away
The free Hele-On Bus (Click here) goes from Hilo to Kea′au and Pahoa six times a day Monday to Friday; take the 9 Pahoa.
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LAVA TREE STATE MONUMENT
Entering this park beneath a tight-knit canopy of monkeypod trees is an otherworldly experience. A short, easy loop trail passes through a tropical vision of Middle Earth, full of ferns, orchids and bamboo, and takes you past unusual ‘lava trees,’ which were created in 1790 when a rain forest was engulfed in pahoehoe from Kilauea’S East Rift Zone. The lava enveloped the moisture-laden ohia trees and then receded, leaving lava molds of the destroyed trees. These mossy shells now lie scattered like dinosaur bones, adding to the park’S ghostly aura. In the late afternoon, the love songs of coqui (Click here) reverberate among the trees. To get here, follow Hwy 132 about 2.5 miles east of Hwy 130.
Lava Tree Tropic Inn (965-7441; www.lavatreetropicinn.com; 14-3555 Puna Rd, Pahoa; d $90-130, cottage $200; ) Next to the state monument, this B&B exudes a quirky European feel because of its gregarious Hungarian owner, who has converted the upstairs into five comfortable, homey rooms, adding funky touches like paintings and table lamps from Budapest. The suite has a fun powder room, a Jacuzzi tub and a bidet, while a detached, fully equipped cottage makes a perfect home base. Breakfast comes with Hungarian treats, while Tuesday is music night; bring your ukelele!
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KAPOHO
Hwy 132 heads east until it meets Hwy 137 at what is called ‘Four Corners’ near Kapoho. This spot contained a farming town until Pele paid a visit in January 1960. A fissure opened up in the