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midst of a nearby sugarcane field; while the main flow of pahoehoe lava ran toward the ocean, a slower-moving offshoot of ′a′a lava crept toward the town, burying orchid farms in its path. Two weeks later the lava entered Kapoho and buried the town. A hot-springs resort and nearly 100 homes and businesses disappeared beneath the flow. Amazingly, when the lava approached the sea at Cape Kumukahi, it parted into two flows around the lighthouse, which alone survived. Old-timers say it’S because, on the eve of the disaster, the lighthouse keeper offered a meal to Pele, who had appeared in the form of an old woman, and she spared the structure.

Most visitors turn right here and continue along Hwy 137, but this area has some interesting detours (see opposite).

On Hwy 132, Kapoho Village Inn (937-0588; www.kapohovillageinn.com; 14-4587 Kapoho-Pahoa Rd; r $89, ste $139) is an old Kapoho boardinghouse – which was spared in 1960 – that’S been converted by an enthusiastic young couple into five attractive, breezy rooms with shared bathrooms and a common kitchen. All have fresh, simple decor, with bent-cane furniture, nice spreads, flat-screen TVs and screened windows. Tiled showers are sparkling clean, and there’S a washer-dryer for guest use.

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RED ROAD (HIGHWAY 137)

Scenic, winding Hwy 137 is nicknamed Red Road because its northern portion is paved with red cinder. It’S a swooping, atmospheric drive that periodically dips beneath tunnel-like canopies of milo and hala (pandanus) trees.

Two side roads also make intriguing detours or shortcuts back to Pahoa: Pohoiki Road connects Hwy 137 with Hwy 132, and it is another of Puna’S shaded, mystical roads, winding through thick forest dotted with papaya orchards and wild noni (Indian mulberry). Further south, Kama′ili Rd connects with Hwy 130, and though less moody, it’S a pleasant country ramble.

Kapoho Tide Pools

The best snorkeling on the Big Island’S windward side is this sprawling network of tide pools, which are officially named the Wai Opae Tide Pools Marine Life Conservation District. Here, Kapoho’S lava-rock coast is a mosaic of protected, shallow, interconnected pools containing a rich variety of sea life. It’S easy to pool-hop for hours, tracking saddle wrasses, Moorish idols, butterfly fish, sea cucumbers and much more.

From Hwy 137, a mile south of the lighthouse, turn onto Kapoho Kai Dr, which winds a little and dead-ends at Wai Opae; turn left and park in the lot (7am to 7pm). There are no facilities.

Ahalanui Beach Park

It’S called ‘the hot pond’ because of its main attraction – a large, spring-fed thermal pool that’S set in lava rock and deep enough for swimming. It’S a pretty sweet bathtub: water temperatures average 90°F, cement borders make for easy access, tropical fish abound, and, though the ocean pounds the adjacent seawall, the pool is always calm. However, despite being regularly flushed by the sea, the pond contains a risk of bacterial infection. Don’t enter if you have any cuts or a cold, and the prudent avoid low tide.

The park is officially open from 7am to 7pm, but the gates are never locked and nighttime soaks are possible. The park has picnic tables, portable toilets and a lifeguard daily. Don’t leave valuables in your car.

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NOISY LITTLE FROGS

Tourists love them because their bright chirping is like a tropical jungle soundtrack, but Hawai′i’S cutest invasive species – the coqui – is a real pest. These tiny Puerto Rican frogs, most no bigger than a quarter, arrived on the island in 1990 and, finding no natural predators, proliferated wildly, mostly around Hilo and Puna. At Lava Tree State Monument densities are the highest in the state (up to 20,000 an acre) and twice that of Puerto Rico.

Within 2ft the coqui’S sweet call can register between 90 and 100 decibels, and at a distance a chorus maintains 70 decibels – equivalent to a vacuum cleaner. To hear what you’re in for, visit www.hear.org/AlienSpeciesInHawaii/species/frogs.

Locals tune them out like so much white noise. But they can’t