Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [248]
The road takes its name from a series of small, drive-up craters that lie along the first few miles. In addition, the road provides access to several trails, a campground, petroglyphs and often to the active flow itself.
At one time, Chain of Craters Road connected to Hwys 130 and 137 in Puna. Lava flows closed the road in 1969, but, slightly rerouted, it reopened in 1979. Then Kilauea cut the link again in 1988, burying a 10-mile stretch of the road.
HILINA PALI ROAD
The first major intersection is this 9-mile, one-lane road (Map). Four miles along this road is the small Kulanaokuaiki Campground (Click here). The road itself is not very scenic, and it is so winding that the drive can take over 40 minutes one way. However, it ends at the Hilina Pali Overlook, a lookout of exceptional beauty. The grassy coastal plain below will beckon hikers to descend the steep Hilina Pali Trail here, but don’t – unless you’re prepared for a grueling all-day adventure or an overnight backpack. If not, be content to follow the trail for 100yd and sigh rapturously.
MAUNA ULU
In 1969, eruptions from Kilauea’S east rift began building a new lava shield (Map), which eventually rose 400ft above its surroundings. It was named Mauna Ulu (Growing Mountain). By the time the flow stopped in 1974, it had covered 10,000 acres of parkland and added 200 acres of new land to the coast.
It also buried a 12-mile section of Chain of Craters Road in lava up to 300ft deep. A half-mile portion of the old road survives, and you can follow it to the lava flow by taking the turnoff on the left, 3.5 miles down Chain of Craters Road. Just beyond this is Mauna Ulu itself.
The easy Pu′u Huluhulu Overlook Trail, a 2.5-mile round-trip hike, begins at the parking area (which is also the trailhead for Napau Crater Trail, Click here). The overlook trail ends at the top of a 150ft cinder cone, Pu′u Huluhulu, which is like a crow’S nest on a clear day: the vista nets Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, Pu′u ′O′o vent, Kilauea, the East Rift Zone and the ocean beyond. Just before you is the steamy teacup of Mauna Ulu crater. Nothing stops hikers from checking this out, but the park rangers would prefer if you didn’t. The rim is fragile, for one, but also, those who watched it being born feel almost parentally protective.
KEALAKOMO
About halfway along the road is this coastal lookout (Map) – once nicknamed ‘pizza hut’ for its roof, now gone – with picnic tables and commanding views. The trailhead for the Naulu Trail is across the road. After Kealakomo, the road descends long, sweeping switchbacks, some deeply cut through lava flows.
PU′U LOA PETROGLYPHS
The gentle Pu′u Loa Trail leads less than a mile to the largest concentration of ancient petroglyphs in the state. At Pu′u Loa (Map), early Hawaiians chiseled more than 23,000 drawings into pahoehoe lava. Look around and it’S easy to see why this spot might have been considered sacred. There are abstract designs, animal and human figures, as well as thousands of dimpled depressions (or cupules) that were receptacles for umbilical cords. Placing a baby’S umbilical stump inside a cupule and covering it with stones was meant to bestow health and longevity on the child.
The parking area and trailhead are signed between the 16- and 17-mile markers. At the site, stay on the boardwalk at all times – not all the petroglyphs are obvious, and you are likely to trample (and damage) some if you walk over the rocks.
HOLEI SEA ARCH
Near the end of the road, across from the ranger station, is this sea arch (Map). This rugged section of the coast has sharply eroded lava cliffs, called Holei Pali, which are constantly being pounded by the crashing surf. The high rock arch, carved out of one of the cliffs, is impressive, although the wave action of Namakaokahai, goddess of the sea and sister to Pele, has numbered its days.
THE END OF THE ROAD
Chain of Craters Road ends abruptly wherever hardened lava covers the road. This is often the starting point for hikes to see the active flow (Click here). At road’S