Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [249]
However, when there’S no molten lava, this becomes one of the quietest, most dramatic day hikes in the park. There’S no trail per se, but wander into the Mordor-like terrain until the surging, frozen, oily veins surround you, looking as if they cooled only yesterday.
Mauna Loa Road
If you really want to escape the crowds, explore the 11.5-mile Mauna Loa Rd, which begins off Hwy 11 outside the park entrance. The first turnoff leads to some neglected lava tree molds (Map), deep tubelike apertures formed when a lava flow engulfed the rain forest. Then, after a mile, there is a picnic area (with toilets) and just beyond this is Kipukapuaulu (Map), informally known as ‘Bird Park.’ This unique 100-acre sanctuary protects an island of ancient forest containing rare endemic plants, insects and birds. About 400 years ago a major Mauna Loa lava flow buried the land here, but Pele split the flow and saved this small island of vegetation; in Hawaiian these are known as a kipuka.
An easy 1-mile loop trail through the forest makes a very meditative walk, particularly in the morning surrounded by birdsong. You’ll see lots of koa trees and pass a lava tube where a unique species of big-eyed spider was discovered in 1973.
About 1.5 miles past Bird Park, Mauna Loa Rd passes another kipuka (Kipuka Ki), and 2 miles later the road narrows to one lane. Go slow; it’S winding, with potholes and lots of blind curves. Along the way are several places to pull over to admire the views and trails to explore – it’S a wonderful diversion. By the end of the road, you’ve ascended to 6662ft; this is the start of the extremely difficult Mauna Loa Trail (Click here) to the summit. Wander down the trail a few dozen yards for expansive southern vistas that include the smoking Kilauea Caldera far below.
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ACTIVITIES
Hiking is the park’S main activity, and there are trails to suit all abilities. Ranger-led walks occur daily and typically don’t last longer than an hour; the visitor center (Click here) posts a list (the Pua Po′o lava tube is highly recommended, Click here). Or join a guided hike with outdoor-adventure companies Hawaii Forest & Trail (331-8505, 800-464-1993; www.hawaii-forest.com) or Hawaiian Walkways (775-0372, 800-457-7759; www.hawaiianwalkways.com); Click here. Note that trails may be closed due to ongoing eruptions, as were several, as noted, at the time of research.
Cyclists can enjoy circumnavigating Kilauea Caldera along Crater Rim Dr, and mountain bikes are allowed on a few firebreak roads, such as Escape Rd past Thurston Lava Tube. For guided cycles in the park and to the lava, contact Volcano Bike Tours (934-9199, 888-934-9199; www.bikevolcano.com; per person $130). Helicopter tours are also popular (Click here).
Hiking
If variety is the spice of life, park trails are a feast. You can hike to secluded beaches or the snowcapped 13,677ft summit of Mauna Loa; through lush native rain forests or barren lava wastelands; across the hardened top of the world’S most active volcano; or sometimes, to the glowing flow itself.
There are excellent trails of every length and level of difficulty. Plus, many trails intersect, allowing the flexibility to design your own routes. Most of the park is accessible to day hikers, while most backcountry destinations require only a single overnight. However, if you wish, you can wander backcountry trails for days.
If you’re interested in overnight backpacking, note that backcountry camping is limited and entirely first come, first served; backcountry trails contain hiking shelters, simple cabins or primitive campgrounds. All have pit toilets. Bring a stove, as open fires are prohibited. Almost no freshwater is available anywhere; some campgrounds have catchment water (always treat before drinking), and the visitor