Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [252]
After a quick sprint across some ′a′a (which is exactly what you’ll say if you trip), you enter moody fern-and-ohia forest; in less than a mile is the Napau Crater Trail junction – turn right.
Keep an eye on your left for openings to view the mile-wide Makaopuhi Crater. About 30 minutes later, low lava rock walls indicate the site of an old ‘pulu factory.’ Pulu is the golden, silky ‘hair’ found at the base of hapu′u (tree fern) fiddlehead stems. Ancient Hawaiians used pulu to embalm their dead, and in the late 1800s pulu was exported as mattress and pillow stuffing, until it was discovered that it eventually turned to dust.
You may think you’re near the airport – considering the helicopter traffic – but in fact you’re 10 minutes from the primitive campground (with pit toilet). Definitely take the spur to the Napau Crater overlook (to see steaming Pu′u ′O′o). At the time of research, the rest of this trail was closed due to a Pu′u ′O′o vent collapse and shifts in the eruption.
When open, the trail continues through a surreal, wondrous terrain of hummocks, vents and tree molds to and through Napau Crater itself. On the other side, the trail continues another few miles across the shattered landscape to gaping Pu′u ′O′o. As the recent vent collapse makes clear, this is a dangerous and volatile area; respect all park signs and use common sense.
KAHAUALE′A TRAIL
This troubled 4-mile trail (Map), the shortest route to the Pu′u ′O′o vent, has been closed indefinitely by the county. Partly this is due to the vent collapse. However, it was also because the county wasn’t maintaining the trail and several hikers got lost and injured. If the county reopens the trail, it’S worth remembering that the reassuring trailhead sign doesn’t reflect the true condition of this often muddy pig-hunter’S trail riddled with confusing spurs. Further, the trailhead is notorious for car break-ins. From Hwy 11, turn south on S Glenwood Rd and drive 3 miles till it dead ends.
MAUNA LOA TRAIL
Reaching the summit of 13,677ft Mauna Loa is a sublime experience, one that most everyday hikers would rank as one of the best treks of their lives. However, if you’re an everyday hiker, you don’t want to get there by way of the 19-mile Mauna Loa Trail (Map) that leaves from the end of the park’S Mauna Loa Rd. Everyday hikers should instead tackle the 6.5-mile Observatory Trail (Click here), which is accessed from Saddle Rd and leaves from the Mauna Loa Weather Observatory.
If you fall within that smaller class of extremely fit, elite hikers – for whom the easy way is no way at all – this is your trail. It ascends about 7000ft, and, while it is not technically challenging, due to the high elevation and frequent subarctic conditions it takes at least three and usually four days. Two simple cabins with foam pad-covered bunks, new water-free toilets and catchment water (which must be treated) are located on the route; the first cabin sleeps eight, the second 12, and they are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Get a free backcountry permit, advice and water-level updates at the Kilauea Visitor Center (Click here) the day before your hike.
Typically, the first day is spent hiking 7.5 miles to Pu′u ′Ula′ula at 10,035ft, where Red Hill Cabin is located. The next day is spent hiking 9.5 miles to Moku′aweoweo Caldera, and another 2 miles to Mauna Loa Cabin at 13,250ft; from here you can admire the summit directly across the caldera. On the third day, you hike nearly 5 miles around the caldera to reach the summit and return for a second night at Mauna Loa Cabin. On the fourth day, you descend.
Now, the fun part: altitude sickness is common, even expected; going slowly aids acclimatization. Nighttime temperatures are below freezing. Storms may bring snow, blizzards, whiteouts, rain and fog, all of which can obscure the ahu that mark the trail, making it impossible to follow. And