Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [253]
PUNA COAST TRAILS
Three main trails (Map) take hikers down to the Puna Coast: the Hilina Pali, Keauhou and Puna Coast Trails. These trails start from vastly different places, but they each eventually intersect (with each other and even more trails), and they lead to four separate backcountry campgrounds or shelters. Because of steep elevation changes and distance, these trails are most commonly done as overnight backpacks. This is also because, once you see the grassy, wind-swept coast, you won’t want to leave. Talk to rangers about routes and water-catchment levels at the shelters. With lovely swimming and snorkeling, the Halape shelter is the most popular (and books up), with Keauhou a great second choice.
For day hikers, the Hilina Pali Trail looks easiest on the map (it’S only 3.5 miles to snorkeling at Ka′aha), but it’S actually the hardest, with a brutal initial cliff descent; the trailhead is at the end of Hilina Pali Rd (Click here). Far gentler on the knees is the 6.8-mile Keauhou Trail, which takes about four hours to the stunning coast; the trailhead is past 6-mile marker on Chain of Craters Road.
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Regular park programs include After Dark in the Park (Kilauea Visitor Center Auditorium; admission free; 7pm Tue), a series of free talks by experts on cultural, historic and geological matters, held two or three times monthly.
The Volcano Art Center (967-8222; www.volcanoartcenter.org) hosts a full slate of events year round. The following annual events are free with park admission.
Na Mea Hawaii Hula Kahiko Series Four times throughout the year, free hula kahiko performances are held outdoors overlooking Kilauea Caldera.
Annual Spring Dance Concert Last weekend in March. An event hosted by the Volcano Art Center, presenting works by Big Island choreographers and dancers.
Kilauea Volcano Wilderness Runs Late July. This popular marathon ran its last race in the national park in 2008, and is looking for a new route; call the art center for updates.
Aloha Festivals Ka Ho′ola′a o Na Ali′i (http://alohafestivals.com) Don’t miss this brilliant Native Hawaiian royal court procession on the Halema′uma′u Crater rim, with ceremonial chanting and hula, during the August/September Aloha Festival.
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SLEEPING
Accommodation options within the national park are limited; nearby Volcano village (opposite) has more choices.
Camping
The park has two free, first-come, first-served drive-up campgrounds. Facilities are well kept; expect nights to be crisp and cool. The only time the sites get full are busy holiday weekends. The campgrounds are only rarely closed due to volcanic activity.
Kulanaokuaiki Campground (Map; Hilina Pali Rd) About 4 miles along Hilina Pali Rd, this secluded, quiet, eight-site campground has pit toilets and picnic tables, but no water.
Namakanipaio Campground & Cabins (Map; cabin bookings 967-7321; cabins d $55, extra person $10) Between the 32- and 33-mile markers off Hwy 11, 3 miles west of the visitor center, this campground’S two pleasant grassy meadows fill with as many tents as it will hold. It lacks privacy, but nice facilities include rest rooms, water, fireplaces, picnic tables and a covered pavilion. Adjacent to the campground, but with access to a separate bathroom (with showers), are 10 windowless, plywood A-frame cabins with a double bed, two single bunk beds, grills, picnic tables and electric lights, but no power outlets or heating. Volcano House takes bookings and provides linens, but bring a sleeping bag – it gets cold! Campers can access the cabin showers for $3 per person per day.
Top End
Volcano House (Map; 967-7321; www.volcanohousehotel.com; 1 Crater Rim Dr; r $100-230) Perched on the rim of Kilauea Caldera, Volcano House has a venerable history, but its accommodations are so bland and boring it’S almost a crime. True, it’S clean and certainly convenient, but the only thing to recommend