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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [255]

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Art Center’S Niaulani Campus (Map; 967-8222; www.volcanoartcenter.org; 19-4074 Old Volcano Rd), which also hosts a range of evening poetry readings, music, artist lectures and other events.

After a hard day’S hiking, relax with a traditional Hawaiian massage or steam bath at Hale Ho′ola Hawaiian Healing Arts Center & Spa (756-2421; www.halehoola.net; 11-3913 7th St; 30-90min treatments from $45-110). The extensive menu has much more; appointments required.

A local favorite, the 18-hole Volcano Golf & Country Club (Map; 967-7331; www.volcanogolfshop.com; Pi’i Mauna Dr; green fees before/after noon $73/59) has majestic links, with views of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa.

Sleeping

Volcano has a preponderance of nice B&Bs and vacation homes. Volcano Gallery (800-967-8617; www.volcanogallery.com) is a locally managed rental agency listing over two dozen good properties, many in the $145 to $165 range.

BUDGET

Holo Holo In (Map; 967-7950; www.enable.org/holoholo; 19-4036 Kalani Honua Rd; dm $19, r $50-65; ) Don’t be put off by this small hostel’S exterior. Inside, the two six-bed dorms and four private rooms are meticulously cared for, sizable and pleasant. The kitchen is nicely equipped, and there’S a laundry. It’S a quiet, homey place tended by a gracious host.

MIDRANGE & TOP END

My Island B&B (Map; 967-7216; www.myislandinnhawaii.com; 19-3896 Old Volcano Rd; s $65-95, d $80-120, house d $150; ) In a historic 1886 house, this comfortable European-style B&B is run by a friendly family who know the volcano as intimately as any ranger. Gordon, the father, is a colorful raconteur who keeps things lively around the breakfast table. The three main-house rooms have character but are small (two share a tiny bathroom with a redwood-and-copper tub); two studio rooms in a separate building have TV and kitchenette. It also rents out a fully equipped three-bedroom house nearby.

Volcano Artists Cottage (967-7261; www.volcanoartistscottage.com; 19-3436 Old Volcano Rd; cottage incl breakfast $130; ) On the grounds of Volcano Garden Arts (Click here), the caretaker’S cottage of this former estate has been reimagined as a tiny retreat to restore your creative muse. Somehow it holds a fully functioning kitchen, dining table, comfy chair and queen bed (with delicious spreads), as well as an inspirational step-down, sea-green tile bathroom as big as the living area. Best for singles and intimate couples.

Aloha Crater Lodge (Map; 345-4449; www.alohacraterlodge.com; 11-3966 Lanihuli Rd; r $100-150; ) Families wanting a well-kept place to relax will find common cause with the enthusiastic young innkeepers. The new-built house has four well-insulated rooms with mini-kitchens and attractive, unpretentious decor. Ohia-trunk posts add character, as does the outdoor Jacuzzi. The forested property has an entrance to Kazumura Cave (Click here).

Bamboo Orchid Cottage (985-9592, 877-208-2199; www.bambooorchidcottage.com; 11-3903 Tenth St; r incl breakfast $100-130, ste $180; ) Built to be a B&B, this house holds five well-designed rooms and a vaulted common area with wood fireplace. All rooms have lush bedspreads and attractive furnishings; three have propane fireplaces with mosaic-tile mantels. Add a shared BBQ and hot tub, and it’S easy to bunk here.

Volcano Tree House (www.volcanotreehouse.com; 11-3860 Eleventh St; r $175-250; ) For a more private retreat, consider Bamboo Orchid’S sister property. Set in a fern forest with raised catwalks among the trees, all three large rooms have a kitchen and TV.

Volcano Rainforest Retreat (985-8696, 800-550-8696; www.volcanoretreat.com; 11-3832 12th St at Ruby St; cottage d incl breakfast $140-260; ) For all the jungle with none of the sacrifice, book one of the four luxurious, individually designed cedar cottages at this meditation-minded B&B. Artfully positioned among giant hapu′u, cottages have huge windows and either outdoor hot tubs or Japanese-style soaking tubs to maximize your experience of nature. Some have kitchens. To complete the northern California vibe, it offers meditation retreats and on-call massage

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