Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [256]
Kilauea Lodge (Map; 967-7366; www.kilauealodge.com; Old Volcano Rd; incl breakfast r $175-225, cottage d $185-300; ) Volcano’S most attractive property is an old renovated YMCA camp that sleeps like a B&B with hotel services. The 12 rooms vary their offerings, but all embody upscale country romance with gas fireplaces, Hawaiian quilts, artistic stained glass, tall ceilings and bathroom skylights. A relaxing common room has a wood fireplace, and the manicured jungle gardens hold a gorgeous hot tub. It also rents three detached, fully equipped cottages.
Eating
Lava Rock Café (Map; 967-8526; Old Volcano Rd; mains $8-10; 7:30am-5pm Mon, to 9pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun; ) Behind Kilauea General Store, this basic diner is nothing special, but it’S the favored spot for breakfast or a burger. It has internet terminals (per hour $10) and wi-fi (per day $10).
Volcano Golf & Country Club (Map; 967-7331; Pi′i Mauna Dr; meals $6-10.50; restaurant 8am-3pm) Locals come here for affordable lunch specials and fresh mahimahi burgers while chatting around the attractive fireplace.
Thai Thai Restaurant (Map; 967-7969; 19-4084 Old Volcano Rd; mains $15-23; 4-9pm) The owners get their spices directly from Thailand and craft destination-worthy Thai cuisine. Here, satay doesn’t come on a stick, and the generous-portioned, attractively presented curries and soups arrive vibrantly flavored with a rich tingly warmth – we’re guessing they could even impress Pele if she ordered ‘Thai hot.’
Kiawe Kitchen (Map; 967-7711; cnr Old Volcano & Haunani Rds; pizzas $15-20, mains $24-32; 11am-2:30pm & 5:30-8:30pm) Locals call this pleasant café with big art and a nice patio ‘the pizza place.’ The thin-crust, gourmet-style pizza pies are good, but it also serves Italian-influenced, dependable entrées, like fra diavolo, shrimp scampi and rib-eye steak. A full bar completes the friendly atmosphere.
Kilauea Lodge (Map; 967-7366; www.kilauealodge.com; Old Volcano Rd; breakfast $8-10, dinner mains $25-30; 7:30-10am & 5-9pm) The vaulted beamed ceiling, historic stone fireplace and eye-catching paintings create an upscale rustic atmosphere. The kitchen prepares gourmet versions of mostly German comfort food: hasenpfeffer (braised rabbit), venison, sausage and sauerkraut, and Parker Ranch steaks. Dinners come with fresh mini-loaves of bread, the wine list is extensive and service is attentive. In fact, for a romantic evening, you won’t find better in East Hawai′i. Reservations advised. The restaurant is also open for breakfast.
For groceries, pickings are slim at both Volcano Store (Map; 967-7210; cnr Old Volcano & Haunani Rds; 5am-7pm) and Kilauea General Store (Map; 967-7555; Old Volcano Rd; 7am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun). The best trail lunch will be leftovers from the night before (hint: think Thai).
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KA′U
Ancient Hawaiians considered the people who lived in Ka′u to be independent, even prickly folk who did things their way. It’S no different today. At times, Ka′u (kah-oo) feels almost like the frontier, with off-the-grid living that’S both practical necessity and political statement. Residents often say they feel called to live here, and they develop an abiding loyalty; they love and protect Ka′u fiercely, fending off developers and all other carpetbaggers.
Traveling east to west, Ka′u’S landscape changes dramatically – fertile foothills become bucolic pasturelands around South Point, then everything swiftly dries out, turning into a parched lava rock desert. Upland are protected native forests.
Many travelers come to Ka′u to notch a travel milestone and set foot on the southernmost point in the USA – which is also considered the landing point of the first Polynesians to Hawaii. But Ka′u rewards those who linger. There is seclusion and enough quiet to think your own thoughts, and a close-knit community that understands that desire.
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PAHALA
pop 1400
A former sugar town that’S struggled through hard times, Pahala is making a comeback with small-farm agriculture, particularly macadamia