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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [279]

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1251 Front St; adult/child under 12 $92/62; 5:15-8:15pm Oct-Mar, 5:45-8:45pm Apr-Sep) If you’re ready to experience an authentic luau, this is as good as it gets. The food is terrific, the hula troupe and music are first rate and the beachside location fits the scene perfectly. No resort hotel luau even comes close. Get there early, before the seating takes place, to stroll the grounds and get a lesson in traditional poi pounding and hula dancing. One caveat: this luau often sells out weeks in advance, so book ahead.

Feast at Lele ( 667-5353; www.feastatlele.com; 505 Front St; adult/child under 12 $110/80; 5:30-9pm) This multicourse beachside dinner show takes your tastebuds on a sensual voyage. Hawaiian, Maori, Tahitian and Samoan dance performances are each paired to a food course. With the Hawaiian music, you’re served kalua pork and taro; with the Maori, duck salad with poha berry dressing; and so on. Put on by the chefs at the celebrated I’O restaurant, it’s a gourmet feast.

′Ulalena ( 661-9913; www.ulalena.com; Maui Theatre, Old Lahaina Center, 880 Front St; adult/child under 12 from $60/40; 6:30-8pm Tue-Sat) A high-energy performance, this Cirque du Soleil–style extravaganza pairs themes of Hawaiian history and storytelling with brilliant stage sets, acrobatics and elaborate costumes.

Free hula shows performed by children’s troupes are held at Lahaina Cannery Mall (1221 Honoapi′ilani Hwy) at 1pm Saturday and Sunday and 7pm Tuesday and Thursday, and at Hale Kahiko (Click here) at 2:30pm on Wednesday and 3:30pm Friday.

SHOPPING

Art galleries, souvenir shops and boutiques run thick along Front St, and you’ll find lots of shops under one roof at the Wharf Cinema Center ( 661-8748; 658 Front St) and Lahaina Cannery Mall ( 661-5304; 1221 Honoapi′ilani Hwy).

Lahaina Arts Society ( 661-0111; 648 Wharf St) The perfect place to start any art browsing, this artists cooperative spreads its galleries across two floors of the Old Lahaina Courthouse. Works cover the gamut from avant-garde paintings to traditional weavings. Many of Maui’s best-known artists got their start here, and there are some gems among the collection.

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ARTY WEEKENDS

Every Friday night is ‘Art Night’ in Lahaina. Scores of galleries have openings, some with entertainment, wine and hors d’oeuvres. It’s an ideal time to mingle with the Front St art scene, meet artists and nibble a little cheese. The action’s from 7pm to 10pm and it’s all free – that is, unless you see a treasure that catches your fancy.

On Saturday and Sunday the scene swings to Banyan Tree Sq, where from 9am to 5pm local artists and craftspeople set up stalls shaded by the sprawling tree, while Hawaiian musicians entertain.

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MauiGrown Coffee ( 661-2728; 277 Lahainaluna Rd; 6:30am-5pm Mon-Sat) On the mountain side of the highway, shaded by the old sugar mill’s smokestack, this shop sells west Maui’s newest homegrown crop, Ka′anapali Estate coffee. Buy it by the pound, or test it by the cup. Curious to see what a coffee tree looks like? Just wander out to the north side of the shop.

Lahaina Printsellers ( 667-5815; 505 Front St) Hawaii’s largest purveyor of antique maps showcases fascinating originals dating back to the voyages of Captain Cook. The shop also sells affordable reproductions if you don’t have a fat wad of cash on you.

Crazy Shirts ( 661-4775; 865 Front St) Not only will you find some really cool Hawaiian-designed T-shirts here, but the store itself is worth a look for its display of whaling-era artifacts. Step out to the back porch where there’s a trypot once used for boiling down whale blubber.

Needlework Shop ( 662-8554; 505 Front St) Hawaiian quilting is a unique craft and this place is dedicated to spreading the art. Not only do they sell quilt kits but they’ll also get you started with free quilting lessons. Gorgeous tropical print fabrics here too.

Aloha Shirt Museum ( 661-7172; 780 Front St) OK, despite the name it’s really a shop, but the vintage shirts are indeed museum quality with prices running into the thousands. They also

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