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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [287]

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to stretch out on the extensive palm-shaded grounds. Request an upper floor unit, which has the best views.

Noelani ( 669-8374, 800-367-6030; www.noelani-condo-resort.com; 4095 Lower Honoapi′ilani Rd; studios $157, 1br/2br/3br from $197/290/357; ) This ocean-kissing condo is so close to the water you can sit on your lanai and watch turtles swimming in the surf. There’s no air-con but ceiling fans, sea breezes and surf lullabies should rock you to a cool night’s sleep. The well-maintained units cover a wide gamut, ranging from cozy studios to three-bedroom suites that can handle an entire family.

Hale Kai ( 669-6333, 800-446-7307; www.halekai.com; 3691 Lower Honoapi′ilani Rd; 1br/2br/3br $160/210/310; ) Perched on the water’s edge, you can step right off your lanai and onto the sand at this old-fashioned condo. Even the pool is shoreline here, with a splash of saltwater breaking over the edge. Best of all, the place abounds in Hawaiian accents, from the room decor to the lava-rock exterior. If you need extra space, go for the three-bedroom corner unit, which has a cool loft, wraparound ocean-view windows and all the character of a Hawaiian beach house.

Eating

Farmers Market Deli ( 669-7004; 3636 Lower Honoapi′ilani Rd; takeout items $5-8; 7am-7pm) Swing by this health food store to stock up on take-out fare for your beach outing. The salad bar includes organic goodies and hot veggie dishes, the smoothies are first-rate and Maui-made ice cream is sold by the scoop. It’s even greener on Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings, when vendors set up stalls to sell local produce in the parking lot.

Honokowai Okazuya ( 665-0512; 3600 Lower Honoapi′ilani Rd; mains $9-14; 10am-9pm Mon-Sat) The counter service is abrupt and the prices are high for a plate lunch, so why the crowds? It’s all about the cooking. Plate lunch goes gourmet here, with heavenly sauces. The mahimahi lemon caper sauté is not to be missed. A strip of stools lines the wall if you want to feast on the spot, but most folks treat it as takeout.

Java Jazz & Soup Nutz ( 667-0787; Honokowai Marketplace, 3350 Lower Honoapi′ilani Rd; breakfast & lunch $6-12, dinner $12-30; 6am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun) As Bohemian as you’ll find this side of Greenwich Village, this arty café has a menu as eclectic as its decor. Breakfast packs ’em in with everything from bagels to hearty omelettes; lunch revolves around specialty salads and innovative sandwiches. Dinner gets downright meaty with what may well be the finest flame-grilled filet mignon on Maui.

KAHANA

pop 2200

Kahana, the village north of Honokowai, boasts million-dollar homes, upscale beachfront condominium complexes and Maui’s only microbrewery.

Information

The Kahana Gateway (4405 Honoapi′ilani Hwy) shopping center has a gas station, Bank of Hawaii ( 669-3922), Kahana Koin-op Laundromat ( 669-1587; last wash 8pm) and Whalers General Store ( 669-3700; 6:30am-11pm) for basic groceries and sundries. The center’s Hawaiian Village Coffee ( 665-1114; per min 20¢; 6am-9pm) has online computers.

Sights & Activities

The sandy beach fronting the village offers reasonable swimming. Park at the seaside Pohaku Park and walk north a couple of minutes to access the beach. Pohaku Park itself has a gnarly offshore break called S-Turns that attracts lots of surfers. Maui Dive Shop ( 669-3800; Kahana Gateway shopping center, 4405 Honoapi′ilani Hwy; dives from $90; snorkel rentals per day $8; 8am-9pm) provides a full range of dives and rental gear.

Sleeping

Sands of Kahana ( 669-0423, 800-580-1006; www.sands-of-kahana.com; 4299 Lower Honoapi′ilani Rd; 1br/2br/3br from $150/265/375; ) Among the beachside condos in Kahana, this is easily the best value. The huge one-bedroom units have more space than the average two-bedroom elsewhere – four people could happily co-exist, as the living room sofabed is a long 25ft from the bedroom. Room amenities include a washer/dryer and ocean-view lanai; the grounds have tennis courts, a fitness center and a seaside restaurant.

Eating & Drinking

Hawaiian Village Coffee ( 665-1114; Kahana Gateway,

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