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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [288]

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4405 Honoapi′ilani Hwy; snacks $2-6; 6am-9pm; ) This little shop’s all about local flavor with Maui-grown coffee, Maui-made Roselani ice cream – try the yummy haupia (coconut pudding) and homemade baked goods.

Maui Brewing Company ( 669-3474; Kahana Gateway, 4405 Honoapi′ilani Hwy; mains $8-25; 11am-1am) The food would be reason enough to come to this microbrewery: whole-grain pizzas, Maui Cattle burgers, Thai egg rolls. But it’s the heady brews that really steal the show. For something light, try the Bikini Blonde; for more of a wallop, order the Coconut Porter. Then set your drinks down on the frost rail – a strip of white snow that lines the bar – and meditate on why it’s better to be in Maui than Manitoba.

Roy’s Kahana Bar & Grill ( 669-6999; Kahana Gateway, 4405 Honoapi′ilani Hwy; mains $30-40; 5:30-10pm) You’ll find outstanding Hawaii Regional Cuisine at this outpost of famed Honolulu-chef-guru Roy Yamaguchi. His Maui flagship woos diners with savory dishes like blackened ahi with Chinese mustard and the coriander pork chops in plum wine sauce. A sweet deal is the prix-fixe three-course dinner ($40) available to those seated before 6:30pm. Reservations advised.

NAPILI

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Napili’s lovely bay makes you want to stop and stay awhile. Somewhat ironically, this little seaside village owes its low-key appeal to its early history of resort development. Its largest hotel, Napili Kai Beach Resort, was built in 1962 as Maui’s first hotel north of Ka′anapali. To protect the bay, and its investment, Napili Kai organized its neighbors and persuaded the county to pass a zoning bylaw restricting all Napili buildings to the height of a coconut tree. The law passed in 1964, long before the condo explosion took over the rest of west Maui, and as a result Napili has preserved an intimate scale that’s been lost elsewhere.

Sights & Activities

The deep golden sands and gentle curves of Napili Beach offer good beachcombing anytime and excellent swimming and snorkeling when it’s calm. Big waves occasionally make it into the bay in winter, and when they do it’s time to break out the skimboards – the steep drop at the beach provides a perfect run into the surf.

Sleeping

Hale Napili ( 669-6184, 800-245-2266; www.halenapili.com; 65 Hui Dr; studios/1br from $160/260) The aloha of the Hawaiian manager ensures lots of repeat guests at this well-maintained condo right on the beach. The place is a welcome throwback to an earlier era, when everything in Maui was small and personable. The 18 units, each roomy and neat as a pin, have tropical decor, fully equipped kitchens and oceanfront lanai with unbeatable sunset views.

Outrigger Napili Shores ( 669-8061, 800-688-7444; www.outrigger.com; 5315 Lower Honoapi′ilani Rd; studios from $219, 1br $299; ) This friendly place packs a lot for a small resort. The palm-filled grounds hold two solar-heated pools, a hot tub and the area’s coolest beachfront eatery. The units are fresh off a renovation that added top-of-the-line features including granite countertops, flat-screen TVs and new kitchens. Plantation-style shutters look out upon waterview patios. Amenities include free internet and voice mail.

Napili Kai Beach Resort ( 669-6271, 800-367-5030; www.napilikai.com; 5900 Lower Honoapi′ilani Rd; r/studios/1br from $235/335/475; ) Spread across several waterfront acres, this pampering resort perched above the northern end of Napili Bay has classic appeal. The units, which tastefully blend Polynesian decor with Asian touches, have ocean-view lanai and, in most cases, kitchenettes.

Eating

Gazebo ( 669-5621; Outrigger Napili Shores, 5315 Lower Honoapi′ilani Rd; meals $7-11; 7:30am-2pm) There’s no better place to start your day than at this open-air place – literally a gazebo, smack on the beach. Sweet tooths love the white chocolate mac-nut pancakes, while serious appetites dig into the mammoth omelettes. Arrive early, though, to beat the breakfast queue. Meal-size salads, hearty sandwiches and the kalua pig plate are the menu stars at lunch.

Mama’s Ribs ‘N Rotisserie ( 665-6262; Napili Plaza,

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