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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [325]

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THE ULTIMATE GETAWAY

Hana may be a tight-knit Hawaiian community, but it’s certainly not a closed one. Over the years celebrities have fallen in love with Hana. Aviator Charles Lindbergh found his piece of paradise in nearby Kipahulu. Beatle George Harrison retreated to his estate in Nahiku when the world started pressing in. Woody Harrelson tucks himself back in the organic-gridless-communal Kipahulu area when he’s not busy acting. Singer Kris Kristofferson has long been active in the Hana community and actor Jim Nabors (aka Gomer Pyle) grows macadamia nuts nearby.

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FAGAN MEMORIAL

Rancher Paul Fagan often ended his day with a walk up Lyon’s Hill to enjoy the view at sunset – and if you’ve got time you might want to follow in his footsteps. The big white cross topping the hill is now Hana’s most dominant landmark. The 15-minute trail up Lyon’s Hill starts opposite Hotel Hana-Maui.

Activities

For the ultimate bird’s-eye view hop aboard a tandem ultralight aircraft with Hang Gliding Maui ( 572-6557; Hana Airport; ½/1hr flight $130/220; by appointment). Flight suits are provided; all you need is a little daring! And you actually get to fly this cool craft that looks like a motorcycle with wings – dual controls allow the passenger to take the reins once it’s airborne.

If you’re up for pampering, the posh Honua Spa ( 270-5290; Hotel Hana-Maui, 5031 Hana Hwy; treatments $140-250; 9am-8pm) can fill the bill with lomilomi (traditional Hawaiian massage) and ginger scrubs. Luana Spa Retreat ( 248-8855; 5050 Uakea Rd; treatments $40-175; by appointment) offers massages and body treatments in a Hawaiian-style open-air setting.

Hana Ranch Stables ( 270-5258; Mill Rd; 1hr ride $60), which books through Hotel Hana-Maui, gives horseback riders the option to trot along Hana’s black-lava coastline or head for the hills into green cattle pasture.

Other activities, including kayaking, can be arranged through Hotel Hana-Maui. Hana Ballpark has public tennis courts.

Festivals & Events

East Maui Taro Festival (www.tarofestival.org) Maui’s most Hawaiian town throws its most Hawaiian party. If it’s native, it’s here – outrigger canoe races, a taro pancake breakfast, poi making, hula dancing and a big jamfest of top ukulele and slack key guitarists. Held on a weekend in April, it’s Hana at its finest; book accommodations well in advance.

Hana Relays (www.virr.com) This relay road race, held on a Saturday in early September, follows the untamed Hana Hwy for 52 breathtaking miles from Kahului to Hana Ballpark.

Sleeping

In addition to the following accommodation options, there are cabins and tent camping at Wai′anapanapa State Park (Click here), just to the north of Hana, and camping at ′Ohe′o Gulch (Click here), about 10 miles south.

Joe’s Place ( 248-7033; www.joesrentals.com; 4870 Uakea Rd; r with shared/private bathroom $50/60) Hana’s only nod to the budget traveler offers a dozen basic rooms. The linoleum’s worn but there’s a fresh coat of paint on the walls and the place is kept sparkling clean. The shared facilities – a BBQ, TV den and full kitchen – provide homey opportunities to exchange tips with fellow travelers after a day of sightseeing.

Luana Spa Retreat ( 248-8855; www.luanaspa.com; 5050 Uakea Rd; d $150) Just you, a yurt and a view. On a secluded hill overlooking Hana Bay, this back-to-nature charmer fuses outdoor living with indoor comforts. The yurt sports a well-equipped kitchenette and a stereo with Hawaiian music. Shower outdoors in a bamboo enclosure, enjoy spectacular stargazing over the bay – this is pure romance, Hana-style.

Hana Kai-Maui ( 248-8426, 800-346-2772; www.hanakai.com; 1533 Uakea Rd; studios/1br from $185/210) Hana’s only condo complex is just a stone’s throw from Hana’s hottest surfing beach. The units are nicely fitted and although the walls are thin, the sound of the surf drowns out neighboring chatter. For primo ocean views request a top-floor corner unit.

Hotel Hana-Maui ( 248-8211, 800-321-4262; www.hotelhanamaui.com; 5031 Hana Hwy; r from $495; ) This famed getaway hotel

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