Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [326]
Eating
Hana has limited grocery selections, so if you’re staying awhile it’s best to stock up in Kahului before heading down.
Hana Farms ( 248-7553; 2910 Hana Hwy; snacks $4-7; 9am-6pm) This roadside stand at the ‘Welcome to Hana’ sign sells Ono Farms organic coffee, delish macnut banana bread, made-to-order smoothies and fresh fruit. You’ll also find a couple of covered picnic tables where you can relax and imbibe.
Tutu’s ( 248-8224; Hana Beach Park; snacks $4-9; 8:30am-4pm) Hana Beach Park’s fast-food grill serves the expected menu of shave ice, burgers and loco moco (egg, hamburger and rice) plates. Grab a table on the beach and you’ve got yourself a picnic.
Hana Bay Grill (Hana Beach Park; mains $7-12; 11am-5pm) This colorfully painted food truck that parks at the head of Hana Beach Park makes the perfect burger made of Maui-raised cattle. Not in a beefy mood? Order the fresh-grilled local fish plate.
Thai Food (Hana Hwy; plate lunch $9; 11am-3pm Wed-Fri) If you’re lucky enough to come by on the right day, you can treat yourself to a delicious homestyle Thai lunch at this roadside stand (at the 33-mile marker) on the way into town. The menu varies, but think beef and pumpkin curry, papaya salad and pad Thai.
Ka′uiki ( 248-8211; Hotel Hana-Maui, 5031 Hana Hwy; dinner $50-65; 11:30am-2:30pm & 6-9pm) Don’t bother with lunch – the real magic occurs here after sunset. Dinner is a locavore’s treat with Hana-caught fish, Nahiku greens and other homegrown delights. Nearly everything’s organic. The flavors are an innovative fusion of Hawaiian and Asian influences. Fridays are casual fun, with a Hawaiian buffet and hula show.
Drinking & Entertainment
Paniolo Bar ( 248-8211; Hotel Hana-Maui, 5031 Hana Hwy; 11:30am-10pm) A classy spot for a drink, this open-air bar has live Hawaiian music (6:30pm to 9pm) most evenings.
Shopping
Hana Coast Gallery ( 248-8636; 5031 Hana Hwy; 9am-5pm) The museum-quality collection of sculpture, paintings and woodwork makes this gallery a worthy stop, whether you’re planning on top-end shopping or just browsing.
Hana Cultural Center ( 248-8622; 4974 Uakea Rd; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri) If you’re in the market for local-made souvenirs, this gift shop at the town museum sells Hana-made jewelry, Maui soaps and lotions, and some affordable woodwork.
BEYOND HANA
The question on every day-tripper’s mind: should we keep going beyond Hana? The answer: absolutely! The stretch ahead is arguably the most beautiful part of the entire drive. Less than an hour away lies magical ′Ohe′o Gulch, with its cascading waterfalls, swimming holes and awesome trails. Between the hairpin turns, one-lane bridges and drivers trying to take in all the sights, it’s a slow-moving 10 miles, so sit back and enjoy the ride.
Haneo′o Road Loop
It’s well worth a detour off the highway to take this 1.5-mile loop, which skirts a scenic coastline. The turnoff onto Haneo′o Rd is just before the 50-mile marker.
At the base of a red cinder hill, less than 0.5 miles from the start of the loop, the chocolate-brown sands of Koki Beach attract local surfers. The offshore isle topped by a few coconut palms is ′Alau Island, a seabird sanctuary. Incidentally, those trees are a green refreshment stand of sorts, planted by Hana residents to provide themselves with drinking coconuts while fishing from the island.
A little further is Hamoa Beach, its lovely gray sands are maintained by Hotel Hana-Maui, but it’s open to all. Author James Michener once called it the only beach in the North Pacific that actually looked as if it belonged in the South Pacific. When the surf’s up, surfers and boogie boarders flock to the waters,