Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [327]
Wailua Falls
As you continue south, you’ll see waterfalls cascading down the cliffs, orchids growing out of the rocks, and jungles of breadfruit and coconut trees. Hands-down the most spectacular sight along the way is Wailua Falls, which plunges a mighty 100ft just beyond the road. It appears 0.3 miles after the 45-mile marker and you won’t need anyone to point this one out, as folks are always lined up along the roadside snapping photos.
′Ohe′o Gulch
It’s time to break out the bathing suit and lace up the hiking boots. Welcome to the Kipahulu section of Haleakalā National Park (admission per car per 3 days $10; 24hr). The crowning glory of the park is ′Ohe′o Gulch with its magnificent waterfalls and wide pools, each one tumbling into the next one below. When the sun shines, these cool glistening pools make the most inviting swimming holes on Maui.
HISTORY
Back in the 1970s ′Ohe′o Gulch was dubbed the ‘Seven Sacred Pools’ as part of a tourism promotion and the term still floats around freely, much to the chagrin of park officials. It’s a complete misnomer since there are 24 pools in all, extending from the ocean to Waimoku Falls, and they were never sacred – though they certainly are divine. The waters once supported a sizable Hawaiian settlement, which cultivated sweet potatoes and taro in terraced gardens beside the stream. Archaeologists have identified the stone remains of more than 700 ancient structures at ′Ohe′o.
One of the expressed intentions of Haleakalā National Park is to manage its Kipahulu area ‘to perpetuate traditional Hawaiian farming and ho′onanea’ – a Hawaiian word meaning to pass the time in ease, peace and pleasure. So kick back and have some fun!
INFORMATION
The national park’s Kipahulu Visitor Center ( 248-7375; www.nps.gov/hale; 8:30am-5:30pm) offers a thin menu of visitor programs, depending on the season and the staff available. The mainstay is a short cultural history talk typically presented in the early afternoon. You’ll find rest rooms at the parking lot. Food and gas are not available.
Since there’s no access between this section of the park and the main Haleakalā summit area (Click here), your visit to the cindery summit will need to wait for another day. But hold onto your ticket, because it’s good for both sections of the park.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Lower Pools
First thing on your agenda should be the Kuloa Point Trail, a half-mile loop that runs from the visitor center down to the lower pools and back. At the junction with Pipiwai Trail go right. A few minutes down, you’ll come to a broad grassy knoll with a gorgeous view of the Hana coast. On a clear day you can see the Big Island, 30 miles away across ′Alenuihaha Channel. This would be a fine place for a picnic lunch.
The large freshwater pools along the trail are terraced one atop the other and connected by gentle cascades. They’re usually calm and great for swimming, their cool waters refreshingly brisk. The second big pool below the bridge is a favorite swimming hole.
However, be aware: conditions can change in a heartbeat. Heavy rains falling far away on the upper slopes can bring a sudden torrent through the pools at any time. If the water starts to rise, get out immediately. Several people have been swept out to sea from these pools by flash floods. Slippery rocks and unseen submerged ledges are other potential hazards, so check carefully before jumping in.
Waterfall Trails
The Pipiwai Trail runs up the ′Ohe′o streambed, rewarding hikers with picture-perfect views of waterfalls. The trail starts on the mauka side of the visitor center and leads up to Makahiku Falls (0.5 miles) and Waimoku Falls (2 miles). To see both falls, allow about two hours return. The upper section is muddy, but boardwalks cover some of the worst bits.
Along the path, you’ll pass large mango trees and patches of guava before coming to an overlook after