Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [331]
Hali′imaile
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The little pineapple town of Hali′imaile (‘fragrant twining shrub’) is named for the sweet-scented maile plants used in lei-making that covered the area before pineapple took over. The heart of town is the old general store (c 1918) that’s been turned into Upcountry’s best restaurant. Hali′imaile Rd runs through the town, connecting Baldwin Ave (Hwy 390) with the Haleakala Hwy (Hwy 37).
SLEEPING & EATING
Peace of Maui ( 572-5045, 888-475-5045; www.peaceofmaui.com; 1290 Hali′imaile Rd; s/d with shared bathroom $55/65, 2br cottage $130; ) This aptly named place in quiet Hali′imaile is Upcountry’s top budget sleep. In the middle of nowhere yet within an hour’s drive of nearly everywhere, it would make a good central base for exploring the whole island. Rooms are small but comfortable, each with refrigerator, fan and TV. There’s a guest kitchen, free wi-fi and a hot tub. If you need more space, the cottage is large enough to sleep a family.
Hali′imaile General Store ( 572-2666; 900 Hali′imaile Rd; lunch $10-25, dinner $25-42; 11am-2:30pm Mon-Fri & 5:30-9:30pm daily) Chef Bev Gannon was one of the original forces behind the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement and a steady flow of in-the-know diners beat a track to this tiny village to feast on her inspired creations. You can tantalize the tastebuds with fusion fare, like the award-winning ginger-chili duck tostadas. The atmospheric plantation-era decor is nearly as interesting as the food and the wine list is no slacker either.
MAKAWAO
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A ranching town since the 1800s, Makawao shows its paniolo roots in the Old West–style wooden buildings lining Baldwin Ave. And the cattle pastures surrounding the town remind you it’s more than just history. If you want to see what a real Hawaiian rodeo is all about, swing by on the 4th of July, when Makawao’s streets fill with cowhands parading on horseback wearing festive lei.
But that’s only one side of Makawao. Many of the old shops that once sold saddles and stirrups now have artsy new tenants who have turned Makawao into the most happening art center on Maui. Its galleries display the works of painters and sculptors who have escaped frenzied scenes elsewhere to set up shop in these inspirational hills. If you enjoy browsing, just about every storefront is worth poking your head into.
Orientation & Information
Most things are within a few minutes’ walk of the main intersection, where Baldwin Ave (Hwy 390) meets Makawao Ave (Hwy 365), including the post office ( 572-0019; 1075 Makawao Ave; 8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30-11am Sat) and public library ( 573-8785; 1159 Makawao Ave; noon-8pm Mon & Wed, 9:30am-5pm Tue, Thu & Sat). There’s no bank, but there’s an ATM at the Minit Stop ( 573-9295; 1100 Makawao Ave; 5am-11:30pm) gas station.
Sights & Activities
OLINDA ROAD
Pretty country roads abound in the hills around Makawao. The best of all is Olinda Rd, which picks up in town where Baldwin Ave leaves off, drifting up past the Oskie Rice Arena, where rodeos are held, and the Maui Polo Club, which hosts matches on Sunday afternoons in the fall. From here the winding road is little more than a path through the forest, and knotty tree roots as high as your car caresses the roadsides. The air’s rich with the fragrance of eucalyptus trees and occasionally there’s a clearing with an ocean vista. Four miles from town, past the 11-mile marker, the Maui Bird Conservation Center (closed to the public) breeds nene (the native Hawaiian goose) and other endangered birds. To make a loop, turn left onto