Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [332]
WAIHOU SPRINGS TRAIL
If you’re ready for a quiet walk in the woods, take this peaceful trail, which begins 4.75 miles up Olinda Rd from central Makawao. The forest is amazingly varied, having been planted by the US Forest Service in an effort to determine which trees would produce the best quality lumber in Hawaii. Thankfully these magnificent specimens never met the woodman’s ax. The trail, which begins on a soft carpet of pine needles, passes Monterey cypress and eucalyptus as well as orderly rows of pine trees. After 0.7 miles, you’ll be rewarded with a view clear out to the ocean, and up to this point it’s easy going. It’s also possible to continue steeply downhill for another 0.25 miles to reach Waihou Springs, but that part of the trail can be a muddy mess.
HORSEBACK RIDING
At Piiholo Ranch ( 357-5544; www.piiholo.com; Waiahiwi Rd; 2hr ride $120; 9am-3:30pm Mon-Sat) you can ride with real paniolo across the open range of this cattle ranch that’s been worked by the same family for six generations. Mountain, valley and pasture views galore.
Festivals & Events
Upcountry Fair Traditional agricultural fair with a farmers market, arts and crafts, chili cookoff, keiki games and good ol’ country music; held on the second weekend in June at the Eddie Tam Complex.
Makawao Rodeo Hundreds of paniolo show up at the Oskie Rice Arena on the weekend closest to Independence Day (July 4) to compete in roping and riding competitions at Hawaii’s premier rodeo. Qualifying events occur all day on Thursday and Friday to determine who gets to compete for the big prizes over the weekend. For thrills on Friday night, head up to the arena to see the daredevil bull-riding bash.
Paniolo Parade Held on the Saturday morning closest to July 4, this festive parade goes right through the heart of Makawao; park at the rodeo grounds and take the free shuttle to the town center.
Sleeping
Hale Ho′okipa Inn ( 572-6698; www.maui-bed-&-breakfast.com; 32 Pakani Pl; r incl breakfast $125-165; ) A short walk from the town center, this historic craftsman-style house built in 1924 offers four sunny guest rooms. It’s all very casual and homey with country-style furnishings in the rooms and organic fruit from the yard on the breakfast table.
Eating
Komoda Store & Bakery ( 572-7261; 3674 Baldwin Ave; pastries $1-2; 7am-5pm Mon, Wed, Thu & Fri, to 2pm Sat) This homespun bakery, legendary for its mouth-watering cream puffs and guava-filled malasadas (Portuguese donut), is a must-stop. It’s been a Makawao landmark since Tazeko Komoda first stoked up the oven in 1916 and his offspring, using the same time-honored recipes, have been at it ever since. Best believe they’ve got it down pat! Do arrive early though – it often sells out by noon.
Rodeo General Store ( 572-1868; 3661 Baldwin Ave; meals $5-8; 6:30am-10pm Mon-Sat, 6:30am-8pm Sun) Stop here to grab a tasty takeout meal. The deli counter sells everything from fresh salads and Hawaiian poke to hot teriyaki chicken and Japanese-style bentó lunches ready to go. Everything is top quality and made from scratch.
Makawao Garden Café ( 573-9065; 3669 Baldwin Ave; mains $7-10; 11am-4pm) On a sunny day there’s no better place in town for lunch than this outdoor café tucked into a courtyard at the north end of Baldwin Ave. Strictly sandwiches and salads but everything’s fresh, generous and made to order by the owner herself. The mahimahi on homemade focaccia is killer.
Polli’s ( 572-7808; 1202 Makawao Ave; mains $8-20; 11am-10pm) Locals and visitors alike flock to this old standby Tex-Mex restaurant to down a few cervezas while munching away on nachos, tacos and sizzling fajitas. The food’s just average, but nonstop surf videos and lively chatter keep the scene high energy.
Casanova Restaurant ( 572-0220; 1188 Makawao Ave; lunch $8, dinner $12-30; 11:30am-2pm Mon-Sat & 5:30-10pm daily) The one Makawao restaurant that lures diners up the mountain, Casanova offers reliably good Italian fare. The crispy innovative pizzas cooked in a kiawe-fired