Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [336]
When Jaws (also known locally as Pe′ahi) is up, it’s impossible for surfers to paddle through the break to catch a ride. But where there’s a thrill, there’s a way. Tow-in surfers work in pairs, using small watercraft known as WaveRunners to get people and their boards beyond the break. When even a WaveRunner is outmatched, surfers get dropped into the ocean from a helicopter.
The equation of extreme sport says that thrill doesn’t come without its share of danger. There are myriad opportunities for big wave surfers to get hurt or killed. The insanely powerful waves can wash surfers into rocks, throw them into their WaveRunners, knock them against their surfboards or simply pummel them with the force of all that moving water. That said, these guys are pros and are very good at skirting the perils.
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Activities
Pony Express ( 667-2200; www.ponyexpresstours.com; Haleakalā Crater Rd; trail rides $95-185; 8am-5pm) offers a variety of horseback rides, beginning with easy nose-to-tail walks through pastures and eucalyptus woods. But the real prize is the trail ride in Haleakalā National Park, which starts at the summit and winds along Sliding Sands Trail (Map) clear down to the crater floor. Pony Express is on Hwy 378, 2.5 miles up from Hwy 377.
Soar above the treetops on the slopes of Haleakalā with Skyline Eco-Adventures ( 878-8400; www.skylinehawaii.com; Haleakalā Crater Rd; 1½hr outing $84; 8:30am-4:30pm). You’ll glide freestyle along cables strung over five gulches for a pure adrenaline rush. A half-mile hike and a suspension bridge are tossed in for good measure. One tip: reserve early, as it often books up in advance.
If the ziplines don’t get you high enough, surf the sky with Proflyght Paragliding ( 874-5433; www.paraglidehawaii.com; Waipoli Rd; paraglide $79; varies with weather). On this one you strap into a tandem paraglider with a certified instructor and take a running leap off the cliffs beneath Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area for a 1000ft descent. The term ‘bird’s-eye view’ will never again be the same.
Tours
You can harvest your own organic lunch on this tasty tour of O′o Farm ( 667-4341; www.oofarm.com; Waipoli Rd; lunch tour $50; 10:30am-1pm Wed & Thu), the garden of famed Lahaina restaurateur James McDonald. Then watch a top chef whip it together and feast on the bounty. Bring your own wine.
Festivals & Events
The Holy Ghost Feast, at the Holy Ghost Church on the last Saturday and Sunday in May, celebrates Kula’s Portuguese heritage and provides a perfect opportunity for visitors to enjoy the aloha of Upcountry folk. This family event has games, craft booths, a farmers market and a free Hawaiian-Portuguese lunch on Sunday.
Sleeping
Kula View Bed & Breakfast ( 878-6736; 600 Holopuni Rd; studio incl breakfast $115) With her paniolo roots, your host knows the Upcountry like the back of her hand. She provides everything you’ll need for a good stay, including warm jackets for the Haleakalā sunrise. The studio unit sits atop her country home and offers sunset ocean views. Breakfast includes fruit from the backyard and homemade muffins.
Eating
Sunrise Market & Protea Farm ( 878-1600; Haleakalā Crater Rd; simple eats $3-6; 7am-3pm) Stop at this convenient shop, a quarter-mile up from the intersection of Hwys 378 and 377, to pick up post-sunrise java, breakfast burritos and hot soup. Then take a stroll behind the shop to enjoy the flowers in the protea garden.
Café 808 ( 878-6874; Lower Kula Rd, Waiakoa; mains $6-10; 6am-8:30pm) Its motto, ‘The Big Kahuna of Island Grinds,’ says it all. This eatery, a quarter-mile south of the Holy Ghost Church, offers a wall-size chalkboard of all things local, from banana pancakes to gravy-laden plate lunches. No need to strain your brain: step up to the counter and order the roast pork and you’ll see why all those cowboys are smiling.
Kula Sandalwoods Restaurant ( 878-3523; 15427 Haleakala Hwy; mains $8-12; 7am-3pm) The owner-chef earned her toque from the prestigious Culinary Institute