Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [337]
La Provence ( 878-1313; 3158 Lower Kula Rd, Waiakoa; pastries $3-4, mains $8-15; 7am-3pm Wed-Fri, 7am-2pm Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) One of Maui’s top pastry chefs hangs his shingle here. Even if you are not hungry, just swing by to pick up a ham-and-cheese croissant or some flaky chocolate-filled pastries for that picnic further down the road. If you are hungry, the chevre green salads are a Kula treat to savor. This place is hard to find but worth the effort: look for the low-key sign on the Kula Hwy as you approach Waiakoa.
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TOP PICKS – UPCOUNTRY-GROWN TREATS
Maui Splash wine at Tedeschi Vineyards (Click here)
Chevre at Surfing Goat Dairy (Click here)
Maui coffee at Grandma’s (Click here)
Lunch tour at O′o Farm (opposite)
Lavender scones at Ali′i Kula Lavender (Click here)
Elk burgers at ′Ulupalakua Ranch Store (Click here)
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POLIPOLI SPRING STATE RECREATION AREA
Crisscrossed with hiking and mountain biking trails, this misty cloud forest on the western slope of Haleakalā takes you deep off the beaten path. The shade from tall trees and the cool moist air make for a refreshing walk in the woods. Layers of clouds drift in and out; when they lift, you’ll get long vistas across green rolling hills clear out to the islands of Lana′i and Kaho′olawe. Very zen-like – except for the symphony of bird calls. Everything around you is still.
It’s not always possible to get all the way to the park without a 4WD, but it’s worth driving part of the way for the view. Access is via Waipoli Rd, off Hwy 377, just under 0.5 miles before its southern intersection with the Kula Hwy (Hwy 37). Waipoli Rd is a narrow, switchbacking one-lane road, but the first 6 miles are paved. After the road enters the Kula Forest Reserve, it reverts to dirt. When it’s muddy, the next grinding 4 miles to the campground are not even worth trying without a 4WD.
Activities
WAIAKOA LOOP TRAIL
The trailhead for the Waiakoa Loop Trail starts at the hunter check station 5 miles up Waipoli Rd, which is paved to this point. Walk 0.75 miles down the grassy spur road on the left to a gate marking the trail. The hike, which starts out in pine trees, makes a 3-mile loop, passing through eucalyptus stands, pine forest, and scrub land scored with feral pig trails. This is a fairly gentle easy hike. You can also connect with the Upper Waiakoa Trail at a junction about a mile up the right side of the loop.
UPPER WAIAKOA TRAIL
The Upper Waiakoa Trail is a strenuous 7-mile trail that begins off Waiakoa Loop at an elevation of 6000ft, climbs 1800ft, switchbacks and then drops back down 1400ft. It’s stony terrain, but it’s high and open, with good views. The trail ends on Waipoli Rd between the hunter check station and the campground. If you want to start at this end of the trail, keep an eye out for the trail marker for Waohuli Trail, as the Upper Waiakoa Trail begins across the road.
BOUNDARY TRAIL
This 4-mile trail begins about 200yd beyond the end of the paved road. Park to the right of the cattle grate that marks the boundary of the Kula Forest Reserve. It’s a steep downhill walk that crosses gulches and drops deep into woods of eucalyptus, pine and cedar, as well as a bit of native forest. In the afternoon the fog generally rolls in and visibility fades.
SKYLINE TRAIL
Also partially in this park is the rugged Skyline Trail, which begins near the summit of Haleakalā National Park before descending to Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area. For details on this hike Click here.
Sleeping
Staying in Polipoli is all about roughing it. The free campground facilities are primitive, with toilets but no showers or drinking water. Tent camping requires a permit from the state and fellow campers are likely to be pig hunters. Otherwise the place can be eerily deserted, and damp. Come prepared – this is cold country,