Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [359]
KANEPU’U PRESERVE
The 590-acre Kanepu’u Preserve is the last native dryland forest of its kind across all Hawai’i. Just 5 miles northwest of Lana’i City, the forest is home to 49 species of rare native plants, including the endangered ’iliahi (Hawaiian sandalwood) and na’u (fragrant Hawaiian gardenia). Look for the short, self-guided interpretive trail, which is inside the first of two fences protecting the preserve.
Dryland forests once covered 80% of Lana’i until introduced goats, deer and pigs made a feast of the foliage, leaving many native species near-extinct. Credit for saving this slice of the forest goes to ranch manager George Munro, who fenced hoofed animals out in the 1920s. In 1991, the Lana’i Company granted the Nature Conservancy oversight of the forest.
GARDEN OF THE GODS
The only fertilizer that might work in this garden is cement. All manner of volcanic rocks are strewn about this landscape of maroon-and rust-colored earth. Many have strange shapes that stand out against the seemingly Martian landscape and you may fully expect the plucky little Mars Explorer probe to come buzzing past.
It’s utterly silent up here and you can see up to four other islands across the white-capped waters. The colors change with the light – pastel in the early morning, rich hues in the late afternoon. Amidst the salmons and siennas, look for rocks oddly perched atop others.
POLIHUA BEACH
This broad, 1.5-mile-long white-sand beach at the northwestern tip of the island takes its name from the green sea turtles that nest here. Polihua means ‘eggs in the bosom.’ Although the beach itself is gorgeous, strong winds kicking up the sand and tiny shells often make it stingingly unpleasant; water conditions are treacherous.
MUNRO TRAIL
This exhilarating 12-mile adventure can be hiked, mountain biked or negotiated in a 4WD vehicle. For the best views, get an early start. Those hiking or biking should be prepared for steep grades and allow a whole day. If you’re driving and the dirt road has been graded recently, give yourself two to three hours. However, be aware that rains turn the dirt into a red-colored swamp that claims many a 4WD. Watch out for sheer drop-offs.
To start, head north on Hwy 44. About a mile past the Lodge at Koele, turn right onto the paved road that ends in half a mile at the island’s cemetery. The Munro Trail starts left of the cemetery, passing through eucalyptus groves and climbing the ridge where the path is studded with Norfolk Island pines. These trees, a species that draw moisture from the afternoon clouds and fog, were planted in the 1920s as a watershed by naturalist George Munro, after whom the trail is named.
Before the Munro Trail was upgraded to a dirt road, it was a footpath and historically was a place of taro farms, which drew on the frequent rainfall.
The trail looks down on deep ravines cutting across the east flank of the mountain, and passes Lana’ihale (3370ft), Lana’i’s highest point. On a clear day, you can see all the inhabited Hawaiian Islands (except for distant Kaua’i and Ni’ihau) along the route. Stay on the main trail, descending 6 miles to the central plateau. Keep the hills to your left and turn right at the big fork in the road. The trail ends back on Manele Rd (Hwy 440) between Lana’i City and Manele Bay.
KAUMALAPA’U HIGHWAY
Kaumalapa’u Hwy (Hwy 440) connects Lana’i City to the airport before ending at Kaumalapa’u Harbor, the island’s deepwater barge dock. The road itself is about as exciting as a can of pineapple chunks in heavy syrup but it runs close to Lana’i’s best archaeological site.
KAUNOLU
Perched on a majestic bluff at the southwestern tip of the island, the ancient fishing village