Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [360]
Now overgrown and visited by few, Kaunolu boasts the largest concentration of stone ruins on Lana’i. A gulch separates the two sides of the bay, with remnants of former house sites on the eastern side, obscured by thorny kiawe. The stone walls of Halulu Heiau at the western side of the gulch still dominate the scene. The temple once served as a pu’uhonua (place of refuge), where taboo-breakers fled to elude their death sentences. There are over 100 building sites here.
Northwest of the heiau, a natural stone wall runs along the perimeter of the sea cliff. Look for a break in the wall at the cliff’s edge, where there’s a sheer 80ft drop known as Kahekili’s Jump. The ledge below makes diving into the ocean a death-defying thrill, but is recommended for professionals only. It’s said that Kamehameha the Great would test the courage of upstart warriors by having them leap from this spot. More recently, it has been the site of world-class cliff-diving championships.
To get to Kaunolu, follow Kaumalapa’u Hwy (Hwy 440) 0.6 miles past the airport, turning left onto a partial gravel and dirt road that runs south through abandoned pineapple fields for 2.2 miles. A carved stone marks the turn onto a much rougher but still very 4WD-capable road down to the sea. After 2.5 miles you’ll see a sign for a short interpretive trail, which has well-weathered signs explaining the history of Kaunolu. Another 0.3 mile brings you to a parking area amidst the ruins. One complication of a visit to this spot is that some rental firms may not allow you to drive here. Check first.
Moloka’i
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HISTORY
CLIMATE
NATIONAL, STATE & COUNTY PARKS
ACTIVITIES
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
KAUNAKAKAI
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
ACTIVITIES
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT
SHOPPING
GETTING THERE & AROUND
EAST MOLOKA’I
KAWELA
KAMALO
’UALAPU’E
KALUA’AHA
’ILI’ILI’OPAE HEIAU
PUKO’O
WAIALUA
WAIALUA TO HALAWA
HALAWA VALLEY
CENTRAL MOLOKA’I
KAMAKOU AREA
KUALAPU’U
HO’OLEHUA
MO’OMOMI BEACH
KALA’E
PALA’AU STATE PARK
KALAUPAPA NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK
HISTORY
INFORMATION
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
TOURS
GETTING THERE & AWAY
WEST END
HISTORY
MAUNALOA
KALUAKOI RESORT AREA
WEST END BEACHES
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The popular local T-shirt that proclaims ‘Moloka’i time is when I want to show up,’ sums up this idiosyncratic island perfectly: feisty and independent while not taking life too seriously.
Moloka’i is often cited as the ‘most Hawaiian’ of the islands and in terms of bloodlines this is true – more than 50% of the residents are at least part Native Hawaiian. But whether the island fits your idea of ‘most Hawaiian’ depends on your definition. If your idea of Hawaii includes great tourist facilities, forget it. There’s not a single resort, not one! And definitely no restaurants ready for glossy-magazine gush. If you want a helicopter tour of the island’s stunning Pali Coast, you have to go to another island to catch the helicopter.
But if your idea of ‘most Hawaiian’ is a place that best celebrates the appeal of the island’s geography and indigenous culture, then Moloka’i is for you. It regularly ranks as one of the least spoiled islands worldwide. The attitude expressed on the T-shirt means that ancient Hawaiian sites in the island’s beautiful, tropical east are jealously protected and restored; island-wide consensus favors economic hardship over development of the often sacred west.
In a cynical world, people don’t realize that Moloka’i’s moniker, ‘the friendly isle,’ is exactly right. There are the waves you get as you explore the uncrowded corners, and the advice about which fresh fish is best when you’re buying food for your holiday rental. More importantly, you’ll start to slow down and understand that ‘Moloka’i time’ simply needs to last as long as possible.
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HIGHLIGHTS