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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [366]

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start at about $100 per hour for whole boat charters, with a four-hour minimum. Try one of these personable outfits:

Alyce C Sportfishing Charters (558-8377; www.alycecsportfishing.com) Joe Reich has over 30 years of experience and also does whale-watching jaunts and round-island runs on his 31ft boat.

Fun Hogs Sportfishing (567-6789; www.molokaifishing.com) Fish your heart out on The Ahi, a 27ft sportfishing boat. Snorkeling and whale watching are also offered. Mike Holmes is a legendary local long-distance canoeist.

Hallelujah Hou Fishing (336-1870; www.hallelujahhoufishing.com) Captain Clayton Ching runs all types of fishing trips, plus he’s a real captain in the sense that he can marry you on ship or shore.

Ma’a Hawai’i – Moloka’i Action Adventures (558-8184) Walter Naki, of trekking fame, also offers deep-sea fishing, whale watching and North Shore tours.


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KAUNAKAKAI

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View a photo of Moloka’i’s main town from 50 years ago and the main drag won’t look much different than it does today. Worn wood-fronted buildings with tin roofs that roar in the rain seem like refugees from a Clint Eastwood Western. But there’s no artifice here – it’s the real deal. Pretty much all of the island’s commercial activities are here and you’ll visit often, if nothing else for its shops and services.

Walking around the town can occupy a couple of hours if you take time to get into the rhythm of things and do a little exploring. A popular local T-shirt reads ‘Moloka’i Traffic Jam: Two Drivers Stopped in the Middle of the Road Talking Story.’ And while there are stop signs, there are no stoplights.

If possible, stop by on Saturday mornings when the street market draws much of the island.


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INFORMATION

Bookstores

Kalele Bookstore (567-9094; Ala Malama Ave) An overdue bookstore for the island that opened in 2009.

Emergency

Police, Fire & Ambulance (911)

Internet Access

The library (see opposite) has internet access.

Moloka’i Mini Mart (553-4447; Mohala St; 6am-11pm) Convenience store with internet access (per min 8¢) plus printing.

Laundry

Friendly Isle Laundromat (Kaunakakai Pl; 7am-9pm)

Laundramat (Makaena Pl; 7am-9pm) Bring your own soap to this place with an oddly spelt name.

Libraries

Moloka’i Library (553-1765; Ala Malama Ave; 9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, Wed noon-8pm) Buy a library card for 3 months ($10) or 5 years ($25) and enjoy internet use and library privileges here and at 50 other branches statewide.

Media

In lieu of a daily newspaper, bulletin boards (especially at the Friendly Market) around Kaunakakai are the prime source of news and announcements.

Molokai Dispatch (552-2781; www.themolokaidispatch.com) Free weekly with an activist slant published each Thursday; watch the events calendar for local happenings.

Medical Services

Moloka’i Drugs (553-5790; Moloka’i Professional Bldg, Kamoi St; 9am-5:45pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Sells local books and maps, along with drugstore fare.

Moloka’i General Hospital (553-5331; 280 Puali St; 24hr) Emergency services.

Money

Banks with 24-hour ATMs can be found along Ala Malama Ave. Bank of Hawai’i (553-3273; Ala Malama Ave) is the largest.

Post

Post office (553-5845; Ala Malama Ave) The one out west is more fun (Click here).

Tourist Information

Moloka’i Visitor Center (www.visitmolokai.com) A website with excellent links.

Moloka’i Visitors Association (MVA; 553-3876, 800-800-6367; www.molokai-hawaii.com; 2 Kamoi St; 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) This simple office can help with information about member businesses.


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SIGHTS

Kaunakakai is its own attraction. Specifically look for gems of old buildings such as the Moloka’i Library (Ala Malama Ave), which dates from 1937. Kaunakakai Wharf is the busy commercial lifeline for Moloka’i. Okay, it’s not that busy… A freight barge chugs in, skippers unload catches of mahimahi (white-fleshed fish also called ‘dolphin’), and a buff gal practices for a canoe race. A roped-off area with a floating dock provides a kiddie swim area. On the west

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