Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [367]
As Moloka’i was the favorite island playground of King Kamehameha V, he had the royal 10-acre Kapua’iwa Coconut Grove (Map) planted near his sacred bathing pools in the 1860s. Standing tall, about a mile west of downtown, its name means ‘mysterious taboo.’ Be careful where you walk (or park) when you visit, because coconuts frequently plunge silently to the ground, landing with a deadly thump.
Across the highway is Church Row (Map). Any denomination that attracts a handful of members receives its own little tract of land here. The number of churches will tell you how big that religion is here. Look for St Sophia Church (Map), a little wooden gem built with the hard-won earnings of immigrant Catholic pineapple workers. It’s been named one of Hawaii’s most endangered historic sites as the present congregation hopes to replace it with a new building by 2012.
Three miles east of town, One Ali’i Beach Park (Map) is split into two parks. Side I has a coconut palm–lined shore, a playing field, a picnic pavilion and bathrooms, and although not especially attractive it’s very popular with local families for the huge weekend BBQs. Two memorials commemorate the 19th-century immigration of Japanese citizens to Hawaii. Side II is a greener and more attractive picnic area. The water is shallow and silty.
The downtown softball and baseball fields are often the most active spot on the island. For some local flavor, go down there and cheer on the Moloka’i Farmers as they compete against their high-school rivals, the Lana’i Pinelads.
Moloka’i has a burgeoning foodie scene. Some noteworthy sea salt is produced close to the center in the front yard of a house belonging to well-known (among salties) salt-maker Nancy Gove. Her Pacifica Hawai’i (553-8484; www.pacificahawaii.com; Kolapa Pl) salt comes in various flavors – ask for a sample of smoked salt. Tours ($12.50, one hour, by appointment) reveal that there are more mysteries to making salt from ocean water than you’d imagine.
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ACTIVITIES
While activities in Kaunakakai proper are limited, it is the place to rent gear or arrange tours.
Moloka’i Fish & Dive (553-5926, 336-1088; www.molokaifishanddive.com; Ala Malama Ave; 8am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) has a shop that’s worth a stop for its eclectic array of goods, even if you’re not planning an activity. Its full range of rental gear is on display (mask and fins per day/week $10/35, fishing pole $13/35, beach chair $5/20). For details on its vast range of tours and activities, Click here.
Kaunakakai Gym (553-5141; Mitchell Pauole Center; 11am-3pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat) has an indoor swimming pool. There are also two outdoor tennis courts, free to the public. You’re not likely to have to fight the crowds for a court.
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS
If you’re planning a visit during these culture-rich festivals, make sleeping reservations many months in advance. See www.molokaievents.com for more details.
Ka Moloka’i Makahiki (553-3673) Moloka’i is the only island still holding the ancient makahiki festival. It is celebrated in late January with traditional ceremony, an Olympics-esque competition of ancient Hawaiian sports, crafts and activities.
Moloka’i Ka Hula Piko (www.molokaievents.com/kahulapiko) As Moloka‘i is known as the birthplace of hula, its hula festival in May has some profound roots. It opens with a solemn ceremony at 3am at Pu’u Nana (the site of Hawaii’s first hula school), followed by a day-long festival including performance, food and crafts.
Na Wahine O Ke Kai (www.nawahineokekai.com) Much the same as the Moloka’i Hoe (see below), but with all-female teams. Best time (2004): 5 hours, 22 minutes, 11 seconds. Held in late September.
Moloka’i Hoe (www.molokaihoe.org) Grueling outrigger canoe race from remote Hale O Lono Point, with six-person teams paddling