Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [368]
Return to beginning of chapter
SLEEPING
Few travellers actually stay in Kaunakakai. Most stay further along the coasts near the beaches and ocean. For full details on Moloka’i accommodations, see the boxed text, opposite.
A’ahi Place Bed & Breakfast (553-8033; www.molokai.com/aahi; cabins $35) This very simple, clean cedar cottage is in a small subdivision, 1 mile east of Kaunakakai. Kind of like a camp cabin (with lots of wood paneling), this place has a full kitchen, washing machine and garden lanai (veranda). More than two people will feel crowded, whether in the barebones ‘backpackers cabin’ or the somewhat more swank main cabin. Breakfast is $10.
Ka Hale Mala (/fax 553-9009; www.molokai-bnb.com; apt $80, incl breakfast $90) Enjoy the spaciousness of a 900-sq-ft, one-bedroom apartment with a fully equipped kitchen and living room with an exposed-beam ceiling. The two-story house is secluded by lush plantings, including trees laden with low-hanging fruit. The owners add to the bounty with organic vegetables and beautiful breakfasts. Rates are for two people; extra persons (up to two) are $20. It’s about 5 miles east of Kaunakakai and the charming owners do airport and ferry pick-ups.
Hotel Moloka’i (Map; 553-5347, 800-535-0085; www.hotelmolokai.com; Kamehameha V Hwy; r $120-220; ) It’s easy to call Moloka’i’s only hotel a survivor, given it outlasted interlopers in the west. But it does have a certain veteran feel about it, from the quirky rooms with a faux-native design that gives them tunnel-like qualities, to the compact grounds with a small pool and hammocks along the reef-protected limpid, silty shore. Upstairs rooms are slightly larger and brighter; some units have fridges and microwaves.
Marc Moloka’i Shores (Map; 553-5954, reservations 800-535-0085; www.marcresorts.com; Kamehameha V Hwy; 1br $125-200, 2br $150-250; ) Managed by the same outfit as the Hotel Moloka’i, this 1970s condo development has units ranging from atrocious to charming, depending on the whims of the individual owners. If you decide to stay here, choose your unit very carefully. All have full kitchens, cable TV, lanai and ceiling fans. The grounds are the best feature and have a large pool, shuffleboard, BBQ areas and more. Like elsewhere on this stretch of coast, the water is shallow and muddy.
Although camping is permitted at One Ali’i Beach Park (Click here), drawbacks include strong winds, no privacy from the highway and late-night high jinks, and it’s not recommended. Click here for permit details.
Return to beginning of chapter
EATING
Foodie sensations had passed by Moloka’i until recently. But there are glimmers of change here, with a few interesting options (including a great place in Kualapu’u and a fine lunch counter on the way to the Halawa Valley). But your best bet is to cook for yourself – the markets in Kaunakakai are well stocked and Moloka’i has some unique foods (see the boxed text, Click here).
Budget
The snack bar inside Outpost Natural Foods (Click here) is good.
Kamoi Snack-N-Go (553-5790; Moloka’i Professional Bldg, Kamoi St; scoops $2; 10am-9pm Mon-Sun) This candy store is loaded with sweets and, more importantly, Honolulu-made Dave’s Hawaiian Ice Cream. The banana fudge is truly a treat.
Kanemitsu Bakery (553-5855; Ala Malama Ave; 5:30am-6:30pm Wed-Mon) Famous throughout the islands for its Moloka’i sweetbread and lavosh crackers (the macnut ones are extraordinary). Otherwise, you’ll be surprised such good stuff can come from such a drab place. Every night but Monday, slip down the alley to the bakery’s back door at 10pm and buy hot loaves, sliced open with one of five spreads, from the taciturn baker. Note: the best stuff is often gone by 1pm each day.
Moloka’i Drive-Inn (553-5655; Kamehameha V Hwy; meals $3-7; 6am-10pm) Always popular, this timeless fast-food counter is best for classic plate lunches