Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [369]
Little Grass Shack (Ala Malama Ave; plate lunches $8; 11am-2pm Mon-Fri) Fish landed at the dock down the road are turned into works of simple culinary art in this unprepossessing trailer that sets up on a vacant lot weekdays at lunch. The Shack’s fish tacos couldn’t be fresher and its sauces pack both punch and creative flavors. For extra kick, dozens of hot sauces are arrayed near the patio tables and chairs.
Oviedo’s (553-5014; Ala Malama Ave; mains $11; 10am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, to 4:30pm Sat & Sun) A local treasure, this Filipino place has seen thousands cross through its banging screen door for a selection of stews and other long-cooked tender meats like succulent roasted pork. The pork adobo (meat cooked in vinegar, shōyu, garlic and spices) packs a punch, while the pig feet, tripe stew and turkey tail are for connoisseurs. Portions are large enough to share.
Midrange
Moloka’i Pizza Cafe (553-3288; Kaunakakai Pl; meals $9-15; 10am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, 11am-10pm Sun) Order at the counter or have a seat in the unadorned dining area, at this pizza joint offering everything from salad and sub sandwiches to burgers and pasta. Divert yourself with a festival of coin-operated games with dubious ‘prizes.’ Lazy cooks get their pizza half-baked (it’s neither thick, thin, nor even just right) and finish cooking it in their rental unit.
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SLEEPING ON MOLOKA’I
Moloka’i’s hotel choices are limited to one, in Kaunakakai. Almost everybody stays in a B&B, cottage, condo or house. Quality ranges from rustic to swank, with the best places having private grounds located right on the ocean. Listings are found throughout this chapter, although the nicest properties are usually in the verdant and coastal east. (With the closure of Moloka’i Ranch, condos in the west can seem desolate.) For information on camping, Click here. There are no hostels.
Maui County has had a running battle with private owners who want to do vacation rentals. Primarily this is due to complaints on Maui and not on Moloka’i but county rules still rule here (and are another reason that locals feel under-represented politically). Although condos are legally in the clear, the situation is somewhat murkier for houses and B&Bs. Most owners ignore the law and at the time of research no effort had been made to enforce it on Moloka’i.
Some good sources of rental and accommodation information and reservations:
Friendly Isle Realty (553-3666, 800-600-4158; www.molokairesorts.com; 75 Ala Malama Ave) Books for more than 70 condos island-wide.
Moloka’i Vacation Properties (553-8334, 800-367-2984; www.molokai-vacation-rental.com) Well-respected local agent with houses and condos.
Vacation Rentals By Owner (www.vrbo.com) Over 100 listings island-wide, from $55 to $1200 per night (average $125).
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Paddler’s Inn (553-5256; 10 Mohala St, mains $8-20; 7am-2am) This casual bar with the large concrete beer garden has a long menu that’s served until about 9pm. There are few surprises, from the deep-fried pub grub to the burgers, steaks and simple pastas. Service is surprisingly crisp, a quality you may lack after a few runs at the vast cocktail menu.
Hula Shores (Map; 553-5347; Hotel Moloka’i, Kamehameha V Hwy; breakfasts & lunches $5-9, dinners $14-20; 7-10:30am & 11am-2pm daily, 6-9pm Sat-Thu, 4-9pm Fri) You can’t beat the oceanfront location but you can beat the food at Hotel Moloka’i’s restaurant. Breakfasts are best; try the banana pancakes made with fruit from just up the road. Lunch and dinner is a mixed bag of sandwiches, salads and mains like chicken with a sauce, fish with a sauce etc. The views of Lana’i, the tiki torches and the sound of the small waves divert your attention.
Markets
Friendly Market (553-5595; Ala Malama Ave; 8:30am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, to 6:30pm Sat) The best selection of any supermarket on the island. In the afternoon