Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [374]
Waialua Pavilion & Campground (558-8150; eeejsimms@aloha.net; Kamehameha V Hwy; sites per person $10) The Congregational Church maintains a small grassy, oceanfront area with BBQ grills, bathrooms and showers. It’s a serene spot with views to sea and heaven, with only the occasional passing 4WD disturbing the peace.
Dunbar Beachfront Cottages (558-8153, 800-673- 0520; www.molokai-beachfront-cottages.com; Kamehameha V Hwy; 2-bedroom cottages $170) The layout and furnishings are tidy and functional at these two vacation cottages near the 18-mile marker. Each cottage sleeps four people and comes with fully equipped kitchen, TV, VCR, ceiling fans, laundry, lanai and barbecue grills. The Pu’unana unit sits on stilts, while Pauwalu is more grounded. Both have good views.
Moloka’i Beach House (261-2500, 888-575-9400; www.molokaibeachhouse.com; Kamehameha V Hwy; per day/week $250/1600; ) Like most of the houses in the east, this simple wooden affair holds a few surprises. Here it is rooms that follow one after another until you realize you’ve got three bedrooms and a huge living/family room. It’s not posh but it’s very relaxed. There’s cable and highspeed internet, plus the usual DVD, BBQ etc. The grassy yard backs up to a narrow palm-shaded beach.
Aloha Beach House (828-1100, 888-828-1008; www.molokaivacation.com; Kamehameha V Hwy; per day/week $290/2135; ) Recently built in traditional plantation style, a breezeway links the two bedrooms. The excellent kitchen flows into the living room, which flows out onto the large covered porch, which flows out onto the lawn and the beach and… There’s cable internet and lots of beach toys. It’s just past the 19-mile marker, next to the campground and close to Moloka’i Beach House.
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WAIALUA TO HALAWA
After the 22-mile marker the road starts to wind upwards. It’s a good paved road, albeit very narrow. Take it slow and watch for other cars coming around the cliff-hugging corners; there’s always a place to pull over so you can pass.
The terrain is rockier and less verdant here than over the preceding miles. The road levels out just before the 24-mile marker, where there’s a view of the spiky islet of Mokuho’oniki, a seabird sanctuary and natural photo spot. If you hear a boom, it’s a hapless gull setting off one of the shells left over from WWII target practice.
As you crest the hill, the fenced grassland is part of Pu’u O Hoku Ranch (558-8109; www.puuohoku.com; 2-bedroom cottage per day/week $140/840, 4-bedroom house $160/960; ), which at 14,000 acres, is Moloka’i’s second-largest ranch. Founded by Paul Fagan of Hana, the name means ‘where hills and stars meet.’ Guests who stay here enjoy views across the Pacific, and absolute isolation. A lodge that sleeps you and 21 of your closest friends is available for $1250 per night. There is a three-night minimum stay.
The ranch is also a certified organic farm growing tropical fruits and ’awa (kava, a native plant used to make an intoxicating drink). If you are staying in one of the east Moloka’i rentals, they will drop off a 10lb box of organic fruits and vegetables ($25) on their way to town on Thursdays; otherwise their goods can be found at Kaunakakai’s Saturday morning market (Click here). A small store (9am-5pm Mon-Fri) along the road has snacks, drinks and some of the ranch’s fine produce.
A hidden grove of sacred kukui (candlenut trees) on the ranch property marks the grave of the prophet Lanikaula, a revered 16th-century kahuna (priest, healer). One of the reasons the battling armies of Maui and O’ahu steered clear of Moloka’i for centuries was the powerful reputations of kahuna like Lanikaula, who were said to have been able to pray their enemies to death. Many islanders claim to have seen the night lanterns of ghost marchers bobbing along near the grove.
Past the 25-mile marker, the jungle closes in,