Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [375]
The recently paved road descends into the valley at a steep but manageable rate. Cyclists will love the entire ride, with the exception of staying alert for errant drivers in rental cars mesmerized by the views.
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HALAWA VALLEY
Halawa Valley enjoys end-of-the-road isolation, which residents guard jealously, and stunningly gorgeous scenery. It was an important settlement in pre-contact Moloka’i, with a population of over 1000 and a complex irrigation system watering over 700 taro patches. Little remains of its three heiau sites, two of which are thought to have been luakini, and you’ll probably feel the charge down here.
As late as the mid-19th century, the fertile valley had a population of about 500 and produced most of Moloka’i’s taro, as well as many of its melons, gourds and fruits. Taro production came to an abrupt end in 1946, when a massive tsunami swept up the Halawa Valley, wiping out the farms and much of the community. A second tsunami washed the valley clean in 1957. Only a few families now remain.
Sights & Activities
It’s possible to swim at the base of the 250-foot, twin Moa’ula and Hipuapua Falls, which cascade down the back of this lush valley. They are reached via a straightforward 2-mile trail lined with historical sites. To protect these sites, and because the trail crosses private property, visiting the falls requires a hike with a local guide. The $80-per-person fee includes a wealth of cultural knowledge and walks can easily take five hours. Prepare for muddy conditions and wear stout shoes so you can navigate over river boulders. You may be able to organize a guide with local residents (553-9803), through Kalani Pruet (336-1149) or with the ever-present Moloka’i Fish & Dive (Click here). Prepare for voracious mosquitoes.
Sunday services are still occasionally held in Hawaiian at the saintly little 1948 green-and-white church, where visitors are welcome anytime (the door remains open). Nearby, don’t be surprised if you see a bucket filled with fabulous heliconias and other stunning tropical flowers that are yours for the taking. They are grown by Kalani Pruet (336-1149; kalanipruet@yahoo.com), who runs a flower farm, offers waterfall hikes and makes a mean smoothie from fruit he gathers.
Halawa Beach was a favored surfing spot for Moloka’i chiefs, and remains so today for local kids, although often you won’t see a soul. The beach has double coves separated by a rocky outcrop, with the north side a bit more protected than the south. When the water is calm, there’s good swimming and folks launch sea kayaks here, but both coves are subject to dangerous rip currents when the surf is heavy.
Up from the beach, Halawa Beach Park has picnic pavilions, restrooms and nondrinkable running water. Throughout the valley, there’s an eerie feel that you can’t quite shake, as if the generations that came before aren’t sure what to make of it all. Some locals aren’t entirely welcoming of visitors.
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CENTRAL MOLOKA’I
Central Moloka’i is really two places. In the west there’s the dry and gently rolling Ho’olehua Plains, which stretch from the remote and rare sand dunes of Mo’omomi Beach to the former plantation town and current coffee-growing center of Kualapu’u. To the east, the terrain rises sharply to the misty, ancient forests of Kamakou. Enjoy one of the island’s great adventures here by going on a hike that takes you back in evolutionary time.
After the Halawa Valley drive in the east, Moloka’i’s most popular drive runs from Kualapu’u (with its superb little café) up Hwy 470 to Pala’au State Park, site of the Kalaupapa