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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [399]

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Kukui Grove Shopping Center, 3-2600 Kaumuali′i Hwy)

Bank of Hawaii (Map; 245-6761; 4455 Rice St)

Post

Longs Drugs (Map; 245-7771; Kukui Grove Shopping Center, 3-2600 Kaumuali′i Hwy; 7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-8pm Sun) In-store postal center offers photocopying, FedEx and UPS, and US Postal Service (rates are slightly lower at a post office).

Post office (Map;800-275-8777; 4441 Rice St; 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Main post office holds poste restante (general delivery) mail for a maximum of 30 days.

Tourist Information

Kaua′i Visitors Bureau (Map; 245-3971, 800-262-1400; www.kauaidiscovery.com; Suite 101, 4334 Rice St) offers a monthly calendar of events, bus schedules and list of county-managed Sunshine Markets (farmers markets) for the sale of Kaua’i produce. Order a free ‘vacation planning kit’ online.


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SIGHTS

Kalapaki Beach

This well-protected sandy beach (Map) is underrated, considering its easy-access location and remarkable versatility. The calmer waters toward the east are good for swimming, while the swells toward the west draw bodyboarders and surfers. Due to its sandy (rather than reef) bottom, waters are poor for snorkeling. Overall, it’s a gem, not only for ocean sports but also for picnicking, watching the surf action, grabbing a drink at Duke’s Barefoot Bar (Click here) and just hanging out. It’s easily overlooked because it’s hidden behind a row of touristy shops and the Kaua′i Marriott Resort (Click here).

Due to the proximity of Nawiliwili Harbor, the island’s major port, you’ll see ship traffic, barge containers and other industrial objects in the distance. Thus the beach is less exotic than those on the North and South Shores, but the forgiving wave action here is a real plus. Parking close to the water is available at the hotel’s north end (signs direct you to public/beach parking). Just south, Nawiliwili Beach Park is not worth a stop, as its proximity to Nawiliwili Harbor and a seawall give it an industrial vibe.

Kilohana Plantation

If you’re curious about how Kaua′i’s powerful sugar barons lived, visit this handsome plantation estate (Map; www.kilohanakauai.com; Kaumuali′i Hwy; admission free; 9:30am-9:30pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun), which today contains a variety of classy attractions, including Gaylord’s restaurant (Click here), a stellar luau show (Click here), upscale shopping and Clydesdale-horse-drawn carriage rides (246-9529; 20min ride adult/child $12/6; 11am-5pm) across the 35-acre grounds. The meticulously kept property feels welcoming and guests are invited to wander around.

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TOP PICKS – KAUA′I HISTORY

Kaua′i: The Separate Kingdom (Edward Joesting) Definitive history of Kaua′i emphasizes its iconoclastic bent.

Kaua′i: Ancient Place-Names and Their Stories (Frederick B Wichman) Traditional stories about island sites give context and meaning to sightseeing.

A Kaua′i Reader (edited by Chris Cook) Compelling collection of stories and historical accounts, from menehune legends to first-hand descriptions of Hurricane ′Iniki and big-wave surfing.

Aloha Kaua′i: A Childhood (Waimea Williams) Well-written memoir vividly describes 1950s Kaua′i, before the tourism boom, when simpler island values reigned.

Ha′ena: Through the Eyes of the Ancestors (Carlos Andrade) A personal look at the land’s sway on all aspects of indigenous life, written by a Ha′ena native and University of Hawai′i professor.

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Plantation owner Gaylord Parke Wilcox, once the head honcho of Grove Farm Homestead, built the house in 1936. The 15,000 sq ft Tudor-style mansion has been painstakingly restored and its legacy as one of Kaua′i’s distinguished historic houses is unquestioned. Antique-filled rooms and Oriental carpets on hardwood floors lead you past cases of poi (fermented taro) pounders, koa bowls and other Hawaiiana to a row of gallery shops.

Our favorite attraction is the Kauai Planation Railway (245-7245; www.kauaiplantationrailway.com; 40min ride adult/child 3-12 $18/14; departures on the hr, 10am-2pm), which features open-air replica cars and

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