Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [400]
Kaua′i Museum
The island’s largest museum (Map; 245-6931; www.kauaimuseum.org; 4428 Rice St; adult/child 6-12/student 13-17/senior $10/1/3/8, 1st Sat of month free; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) is no bigger than the average house, but its humbleness is rather charming. It’s worth a stop for a quick grounding in Kaua′i’s history, especially if you catch a free guided tour (10:30am Tue-Fri); call for reservations. Free Hawaiian quilting demonstrations (9am-noon Wed & Thu) and lauhala-hat weaving demonstrations (1pm Mon & Wed) are given year-round.
Straightforward, well-written displays explain the Hawaiian Islands’ volcanic genesis and the formation of the island chain from the ocean floor, as well as Kaua′i’s unique ecosystems. Collections include early Hawaiian artifacts such as kapa (cloth made by pounding the bark of the paper mulberry tree), wooden bowls and ceremonial lei. Upstairs the collection covers the sugar and pineapple plantation era. One telling display juxtaposes replicas of a plantation worker’s spartan shack and the spacious bedroom of an early missionary’s house, furnished with an extravagant koa four-post bed and Hawaiian quilts.
Wailua Falls
Is it worth the winding 4-mile drive to the falls (off Map) made famous in the opening credits of Fantasy Island? The view is rather distant but to many, this gushing double waterfall (Wailua means ‘Two Waters’) misting the surrounding tropical foliage is a fantastic photo op, especially when the falls merge into one wide cascade after downpours. While officially listed as 80ft, the falls have been repeatedly measured at between 125ft and 175ft.
At the lookout spot, a sign reads: ‘Slippery rocks at top of falls. People have been killed.’ Heed it. Many have slipped while trying to scramble down the steep, untamed path.
To get here from Lihu′e, follow Kuhio Hwy north and turn left onto Ma′alo Rd (Hwy 583), which ends at the falls after 4 miles.
Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond
Don’t expect a splash and dip – only a distant, if gorgeous, view of this tranquil 39-acre pond (Map), an ancient loko wai (freshwater fishpond). According to legend, Kaua′i’s menehune (the ‘little people’ who built many of Hawaii’s fishponds, heiaus and other stonework, according to legend) formed the fishpond overnight when they built the 900ft stone dam across a bend in the Hule′ia River. Holes in the structure allowed young fish to enter the pond but not to escape once grown. Today you can’t actually see the dam because it’s covered by a thick green line of mangrove trees.
The pond was productive with mullet until 1824, when Kaua′i’s leader Kaumuali′i died and ali′i (chiefs) from O′ahu and Maui ruled the island as absentee landlords. With no ali′i to feed and maintain the pond, it sorely declined. Later the surrounding area was planted with taro and rice. Today it is privately owned and not in use.
The US Fish & Wildlife Service owns the lands surrounding the fishpond (about 240 acres of river basin and steep forested slopes along the north side of Hule′ia River). In 1973 the area was designated the Hule′ia National Wildlife Refuge (http://pacificislands.fws.gov/wnwr/khuleianwr.html) and now provides breeding and feeding grounds for endemic water birds. The refuge is closed to the public, but kayak tours (Click here) along Hule′ia River drift through it.
To get to the overlook, drive up Hulemalu Rd for 0.5 miles.
Ninini Point
If you’ve seen and done everything and still want to explore, here’s a modest excursion to an untouristy spot (Map) where 360-degree vistas show jets swooping in the sky above and waves crashing against the rocks below. Looking east, soaring cliffs cut off rainbows and, closer in, golfers tee off near a beckoning scoop of beach. These terrific views from Ninini Point are made more so by its 100ft lighthouse marking the northern entrance to Nawiliwili Bay. Here, Hawaiians still