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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [417]

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of restaurants, grocers, a drugstore and other basic businesses. you’re likely to stop here to stock up.

Information

There are ATMs inside Foodland supermarket in Waipouli Town Center and, just a minute north, inside Safeway in Kaua′i Village. Both are located on the mauka side of Kuhio Hwy.

For a pharmacy and general merchandise, Longs Drugs (822-4915; Kaua′i Village; store 7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-8pm Sun, pharmacy 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun) offers reasonable prices and a wide selection of household products, beach supplies, grocery items and souvenirs.

For internet access, get wi-fi with a drink purchase at the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf (822-4754; www.coffeebeanhawaii.com; Waipouli Town Center, 4-771 Kuhio Hwy; drinks from $4; 6am-9pm, to 9:30pm Fri & Sat; ), a Starbucks clone.

Activities

Bear in mind that rentals are here but the actual activities are elsewhere.

SURFING

Don’t miss the chance to meet surf guru Ambrose Curry of Ambrose’s Kapuna (822-3926; www.ambrosecurry.com; 770 Kuhio Hwy; per hr $35), who offers to ‘take people surfing’ (not to ‘give surf lessons’). If you’re baffled, then you have much to learn from this longtime surfer-philosopher, once aptly dubbed a tribal elder. Originally from California, Curry has lived on Kaua′i since 1968 and is also an artist and board shaper.

SNORKELING

The cool thing about Snorkel Bob’s (823-9433; www.snorkelbob.com; 4-734 Kuhio Hwy; basic snorkel sets per day/week $2.50/9, better sets $8/32, bodyboards $6.50/26; 8am-5pm Mon-Sat) is that if you’re island-hopping you can rent gear on Kaua′i and return it on the Big Island, O′ahu or Maui.

CYCLING

Kauai Cycle (821-2115; www.kauaicycle.com; 4-934 Kuhio Hwy, Waipouli; per day/week cruiser $20/110, mountain or road bike $30/165; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) sells, services and rents bikes maintained by experienced cyclists. Prices include helmet and lock.

SPAS

Enter a world of Japanese shoji screens, soft lighting, earth tones and botanical aromatherapy at Aveda Spa (823-1488; www.kauaispasalon.com; Outrigger Waipouli Beach Resort & Spa, 4-820 Kuhio Hwy; 1hr massage or facial $135, haircuts $45-65; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) – and the Eastside’s traffic will drift away. Treatments include relaxing extras: imagine lounging in a cushy massage chair while getting a pedicure ($70 to $115). Take advantage of numerous monthly specials.

Courses

Kaua′i Heritage Center (346-7574; www.kaieie.org) offers lectures and workshops by Kehaulani Kekua, a respected and very articulate kumu hula (teacher of hula). The Friday lectures are free, while the hands-on Saturday workshop cost $30. Nowhere else can you find such genuine teachings on the ancient Hawaiian lunar calendar or the significance of Kaua′i’s hula heiau.

Sleeping

Waipouli is sandwiched between Wailua and Kapa′a, both with plenty of options, so also check those sections.

Outrigger Waipouli Beach Resort & Spa (822-6000, 800-688-7444; www.outriggerwaipouli.com; 4-820 Kuhio Highway; 1br/2br from $295/425; ) The surrounding strip malls and traffic belie this condo’s cachet as the Eastside’s newest and fanciest. Units are law-firm handsome and consistently well furnished, with 37in flat-screen TVs, washer-dryer and ‘extra’ bathroom per unit. There’s no swimmable beach, but a saltwater ‘river pool’ and sand-bottom hot tubs somewhat compensate. Outrigger represents 100 of the 196 total units, but also check www.vrbo.com.

Eating & Drinking

Sweet Marie’s Hawaii (823-0227; www.sweetmarieskauai.com; 4-788 Kuhio Hwy; baked goods $2.25-10.00, cakes from 6in/8in $50/75; 7am-5pm Tue-Sat) Believe it or not, Chef Marie Cassel’s melt-in-the-mouth white-chocolate liliko′i cake or gooey coconut–vanilla bean tapioca are 100% gluten-free. Whether or not you eschew wheat, you’ll savor Cassel’s delicious and innovative desserts and custom cakes for special diets (including gluten-, soy- and dairy-free). Located across from Foodland.

Papaya’s Natural Foods (823-0190; Kaua′i Village, 4-831 Kuhio Hwy; dishes $5-8, salad per lb $7; 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, deli to 7pm Mon-Sat) At Kaua′i’s biggest

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