Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [418]
King & I (822-1642; Waipouli Plaza, 4-901 Kuhio Hwy; mains $7-11; 4:30-9:30pm) Ranked number one by locals, this friendly, family-run restaurant offers a lengthy menu featuring flavors such as curries popping with kaffir lime and lemongrass, as fiery (or not) as you like. Vegetarians will find loads of options, like flavorful eggplant and tofu in chili oil or a mound of traditional pad thai with tofu.
Kaua′i Pasta (822-7447; 4-939B Kuhio Hwy; mains $9-15; 5-9pm Tue-Sun) With no view to speak of, the food had better be good. And, judging from steady local clientele (the real test), it is. The chef, who cut his teeth at Roy’s (Click here) in Po′ipu, serves savory panini (hot sandwiches), classic pasta dishes and a perfectly simple (or simply perfect) Caprese salad with local basil and tomatoes and fresh mozzarella.
For groceries, chain giant Safeway (822-2464; Kaua′i Village, 4-831 Kuhio Hwy; 24hr) caters to mainland tourists with its familiar brands, plus American-style deli and bakery. A slightly better option is local chain Foodland (Waipouli Town Center; 6am-11pm), with a decent selection of gourmet and health brands such as Kashi and Scharffen Berger. Neither stocks much local produce.
Foodies will prefer Papaya’s Natural Foods for local and organic produce, plus other island specialties such as Kilauea honey and goat cheese. Another recommendation for local produce and national health brands is Cost U Less (Click here) in nearby Kapa′a.
Shopping
Waipouli’s two main shopping malls are Waipouli Town Center and Kaua′i Village. One notable boutique is the irresistible Marta’s Boat (822-3926; 770 Kuhio Hwy; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat), which will delight ‘princesses of all ages’ with feminine and sexy threads from Paris, LA and New York. Distinctive lingerie and frocks shine, but locally made jewelry and excruciatingly cute little girls’ outfits also enchant. Expect big-city price tags. The ‘Surf for World Peace’ T-shirts (handpainted by owner Marta Curry’s husband, surfer and artist Ambrose Curry (opposite) make cool souvenirs.
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KAPA′A
pop 9470
The only walkable town on the Eastside, Kapa′a is a charmer. The eclectic population of old-timers, new transplants, nouveau hippies and tourists coexists smoothly. Retro diners and domestic shops mingle with live jazz, Bikram yoga and your choice of espresso drinks. A new bike-foot path runs along the part-sandy, part-rocky coast, the island’s best vantage point for sunrises. Kapa′a’s downfall: it sits right along the highway. Try crossing the road during rush hour!
To avoid the paralyzing Kapa′a to Wailua crawl, take the Kapa′a Bypass Rd. Note that except in the heart of Kapa′a, you will definitely need a car.
Information
INTERNET ACCESS
Business Support Services (822-5504; fax 822-2148; 4-1191 Kuhio Hwy; per 15min $2.50; 8am-6pm) No atmosphere but cheap internet access, plus faxing, copies and stamps.
Java Kai (823-6887; 4-1384 Kuhio Hwy; 6am-7pm; ) Good coffee but the café can be stuffy as a sauna; limited patio seating.
Small Town Café (821-1604; 4-1495 Kuhio Hwy; internet per 10min $1, wi-fi free; 5:30am-1pm) Rustic, island-style coffee bar with lots of seating, indoor and outdoor.
LAUNDRY
Kapa′a Laundry Center (822-3113; Kapa′a Shopping Center, 4-1105 Kuhio Hwy; 7:30am-9:30pm, last wash 8pm)
MEDICAL SERVICES
Samuel Mahelona Memorial Hospital (822-4961; fax 823-4100; 4800 Kawaihau Rd) Primarily a long-term-care facility, this longstanding hospital expanded services to include basic emergency care in late 2005. Serious cases are transferred to Lihu′e’s Wilcox Memorial Hospital.
MONEY
First Hawaiian Bank (822-4966; 4-1366 Kuhio Hwy) Has a 24-hour ATM.
POST
Post office (800-275-8777; Kapa′a Shopping Center, 4-1101 Kuhio