Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [439]
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The other way to access Lumaha′i is along the road at sea level at the western end of the beach, just before crossing the Lumaha′i River Bridge. The beach at this end is lined with ironwood trees.
Wainiha
Wainiha Valley remains as it did in the old days: a holdout for Native Hawaiians, though some vacation rentals have encroached onto the area. It is so isolated that its undeveloped areas aren’t necessarily the safest of spots: the area has recently become more known for incidents of drug dealings, rather than natural beauty.
Sleeping & Eating
Coco Cabana Cottage (Map; 826-5141; www.kauaivacation.com/coco_cabana.htm, 4766 Ananalu Rd; per night $125; ) A hot tub, chirping birds, airy ambience and nearby, swimmable Wainiha River make for a lovely secluded stay. This cute little cottage is perfect for a couple wanting privacy and coziness. Has a queen-size bed, wi-fi and phone. There’s a $200 security deposit.
Hale Ho′omaha B&B (Map; 826-7083, 800-851-0291; www.aloha.net/~hoomaha; 7083 Alamihi Rd; r $150-175; ) It’s not so private but if you’re down with the whole sharing-space thing, then the common spaces are pretty sweet. Here plantation style meets the 1960s, including a ‘great room,’ with bar and above-ground deck hot tub. Bedrooms are warmly decorated and bathrooms have dual shower heads for those honeymooners out there.
Guesthouse at River Estate (Map;826-5118, 800-390-8444; www.riverestate.com; house per night $275; ) Airy, huge and open – it’s pricey, but one look and you’ll see why. Featured in National Geographic Adventure magazine and Los Angeles Times travel sections, it almost feels like you’re on the set of Real World, Kaua‘i (because of the lush digs, not because there’s a bunch of drunk kids). It features a master bedroom with a king bed, second room with queen bed, decked-out kitchen, wraparound lanai, washer-dryer, TV, air-con and anything else you could possibly need.
Red Hot Mama’s (826-7266; 5-6607 Kuhio Hwy; meals $8.50; 11am-5pm Mon-Sat) The name means just that: red hot is what you get. Burritos, Tex-Mex and to-go sandwiches are decent.
Wainiha General Store (826-6251; 5-6600 Kuhio Hwy; 10am-dusk) The general store offers last-minute necessities or beach picnic items before the end of the road.
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HA′ENA
Ha′ena is the last community on the North Shore. Remote, resplendent and idyllic, it’s also the site of controversy, as many of the luxury homes on the point were built on top of ancient Hawaiian burials (′iwi kupuna). In 2007 this topic was brought to the attention of the media, following more mobilization of the Hawaiian community, which has continued a program of peaceful civil disobedience.
Sights & Activities
LIMAHULI GARDEN
About as beautiful as it gets for living education, this garden (Map;826-1053; www.ntbg.org; self-guided/guided tour $15/20; 9:30am-4pm Tue-Fri & Sun) offers a pleasant overview of native botany and the ahupua′a (land division) system of management of ancient Hawai′i. The valley was gifted to the National Tropical Botanical Garden by the Wichman family, and is run by one of its descendants, Chipper Wichman, a passionate preservationist and philanthropist. Self-guided tours allow you to take in the scenery meditatively. Occasional service projects allow a glimpse into the 985-acre preserve for native ecosystem restoration.
MANINIHOLO DRY CAVE
Directly across Ha′ena Beach Park, Maniniholo Dry Cave (Map) is deep and broad and high enough to explore. A constant seep of water from the cave walls keeps the interior damp and humid. Drippy and creepy, the cave is named after the head