Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [440]
MAKUA (TUNNELS) BEACH
Another one of the North Shore’s almost-too-beautiful beaches, Tunnels (Map) is small, bursting with surfers and offers summer-only snorkeling in its lacelike reef, which is among the best on the island. In the winter, the season when tubes break, check with a lifeguard before going in.
HA′ENA BEACH PARK
Not necessarily for swimming, this beach (Map) is good for taking in some sun. Ask the lifeguard about conditions before going in from October to May. To the left is Cannons, a particularly good wall dive.
YOGA & MASSAGE
If you’re tired or need to revitalize, the Hanalei Day Spa (826-6621; www.hanaleidayspa.com; Hanalei Colony Resort; massage per 60/90 min $115/195; 11am-7pm Mon-Sat) offers massage and body treatments.
Sleeping & Eating
Ha′ena Beach Park is a popular camping spot and base for exploring the North Shore, including the Na Pali Coast. To camp, permits are required. Click here for county camping permit information.
There’s an abundance of vacation rentals to be found. As of writing, the county is formally permitting vacation rental operations – always ask to make sure an operation is legal (to ensure they’re still up and running for your scheduled vacation time).
Mermaid House (826-8968, 866-369-8968; 7341 Ale Lea Rd; www.kauai-beach-rental.com; 3br $225-250) A stone’s toss from Makua (Tunnels) Beach, this place is perfect if you’re planning on hiking Kalalau Trail, though you’re a tad far from the main town strip.
A River House & Bird’s Nest (826-9675; www.wainihariverhouse.com; 5121 Powerhouse Rd; house from $1610) It’s got a jungle-paradise feel, is just a mile from glorious Makua (Tunnels) Beach and close to the Kalalau trailhead. Avocados, lychees, bananas, papayas and mountain apples (a delicacy even to locals) abound. Boasts a queen bed, full bath, refrigerator and hot plate. Also has a screened-in sleeping area called the Bird’s Nest, with full bed and half bathroom. Weekly only.
Hanalei Colony Resort (Map; 826-6235, 800-628-3004; www.hcr.com; Hwy 560; 2br from $210; ) The only resort west of Princeville, this is a high-end series of condominiums near Makua (Tunnels) Beach. Sure, the ’70s decor in many of the units can seem a bit dated, but the location is waterfront and about as reclusive as it gets. Go to the website to have them stock your kitchenette with groceries.
Mediterranean Gourmet (826-9875; Hanalei Colony Resort; www.mediterraneangourmet.biz; dinner mains $15-25; 11am-9pm) This is a fish out of water, but what a fish. Try roasted lamb and stuffed grape leaves, and leave room for dessert: baklava, cheesecake or a cup of muddy Turkish coffee.
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Ha′Ena State Park
Wind beaten and lava carved, Ha′ena State Park burns with the allure, mystique and beauty usually associated with some divine tale. Pele is said to have overlooked the area as a home because of the water housed in its wet and dry caves. The 230-acre park is home to the 1280ft cliff commonly known in the tourism industry as ‘Bali Hai,’ its name in the film South Pacific. Its real name is Makana (‘gift’).
Sights
KE′E BEACH
Perhaps the most memorable North Shore sunsets happen at this spiritual place, where the first Hawaiians to practice hula came. It offers a refreshing dip after hiking the nearby Kalalau Trail in summer months. Beware that Ke′e Beach has appeared calm to swimmers when otherwise. Ke′e has a keyhole in its reef, where some have been sucked through. Summer brings car break-ins in the parking lot, so leave cars (especially those that are obviously rentals, such as Mustangs, Sebrings and PT Cruisers) free from valuables. There are showers and rest rooms on-site.
WET CAVES
Two wet caves are within the boundaries of Ha′ena State Park. The first, Waikapala′e Wet Cave, is just a short walk from the road opposite the visitor-parking overflow area. The second, Waikanaloa Wet Cave, is on the south side of the main road.
KAULU PAOA HEI′AU
The roaring surf worked