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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [441]

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as a teacher to those who first practised the spiritual art of hula, chanting and testing their skill against nature’s decibel levels. Ke′e beach is home to one of the most cherished heiau, and it’s also where volcanic goddess Pele fell in love with Lohiau. Leis and other offerings for Pele can be found on the ground, and should be left as is. Enter the heiau through its entryway. Do not cross over its walls, as it is disrespectful and said to bring bad luck.


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NA PALI COAST STATE PARK

Kalalau, Honopu, ′Awa′awapuhi, Nu′alolo and Miloli′i (all Map) are the five major valleys on the Na Pali Coast, easily the most distinguishable example of beauty as nature on the island, if not within the entire archipelago. Don’t miss seeing the 22-mile stretch by chopper, watercraft or old-school style – on foot.

History

Archaeologists maintain that the extreme, remote Nualolo Valley housed a civilization dating back more than a thousand years after ancient weapons and hunting tools were recovered from the area. Irrigation ditches and agricultural terraces suggest the Kalalau Valley was the most advanced within the island chain.

At the turn of the century, the majority of the inhabitants of the valley had moved to more centrally located spots on the island.

Hiking

For rewarding views of the Na Pali Coast, hiking along the 11-mile Kalalau coastal trail into Hanakapi′ai, Hanakoa and Kalalau Valleys is an adventure that’s sure not to disappoint. Unfit for roads, the Na Pali Coast leads to the opposite side of the island, in Koke′e State Park. You won’t want to miss hiking the west side of the island for those views. If you’re one of those ‘ultimate’ fitness fanatics, perhaps the Na Pali Coast by sea on a 17-mile kayak adventure is up your alley (Click here).

KALALAU TRAIL

How else could you brave the steep sea cliffs than by foot for 22 miles? Winding along the Na Pali (the cliffs) offers glimpses of some of the most pristine, extreme views from which to behold its deep, riveting pleats. This trail is without a doubt the best way to connect directly with the elements, though keep in mind the trek, if you opt to complete the full 22-mile round-trip into the valley, is a steep, rough hike.

There are three hike options: Ke′e Beach to Hanakapi′ai Beach, Hanakapi′ai Beach to Hanakapi′ai Falls and Hanakapi′ai Beach to Kalalau Valley. There are hunters who can do the entire trail in and out in one day, but most people will either want to opt for the Hanakapi′ai Beach or Hanakapi′ai Falls hike or bring camping gear to make it to Kalalau Beach.

The state parks office in Lihu′e can provide a Kalalau Trail brochure with a map. Another good source sponsored by the county is www.kauaiexplorer.com. Keep in mind that even if you’re not planning to camp, a permit is officially required to continue on the Kalalau Trail beyond Hanakapi′ai. Free day-use hiking permits are available from the Division of State Parks, which also issues the required camping permits for the Hanakapi′ai (one night maximum) and Kalalau (five nights maximum) Valleys. For more information on permits Click here. You’ll need ample time – possibly as much as six to 12 months – in advance to get permits.

Ke′e Beach to Hanakapi′ai Beach

It shouldn’t take more than two hours to complete this 4-mile (round-trip) trek – the most popular and most crowded hike. The first 2 miles of the Kalalau Trail ends at Hanakapi′ai Beach (no swimming allowed).

Hanakapi′ai Beach to Hanakapi′ai Falls

This trek begins after you’ve completed the Ke′e Beach to Hanakapia′i Beach 2-mile jaunt. Once you get to Hanakapi′ai Beach, crowds lessen, as the work-reward ratio compounds. The next 2 miles takes you deeper into the forest, with an increasingly sublime riverscape. Though you might be tempted to take a swim at Hanakapia′ai Beach, it’s best to wait until the falls for such a treat as Hanakapi′ai Beach has notoriously dangerous waters (and the waters of Hanakapi′ai Falls are well worth waiting for).

Hanakapi′ai Beach to Kalalau Valley

Past Hanakapi′ai, the real challenge

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